If you have always wanted to record turn-by-turn commentary on your rides and you use a GoPro Hero 3 or 4 to record, the Sena GP10 Bluetooth pack is a must-have accessory. The “BacPac” allows you to record narration in real time using Sena’s “Ultra HD Voice Recording” mode or the “Normal” mode. You can even combine voices from other intercom users so the entire conversation can be used as an overlay voice-over. Download the Sena GP10 User Guide Here
What is the Sena GP10 Bluetooth Pack for GoPro?
Using Bluetooth headsets, the Sena GP10 Bluetooth Pack allows you to narrate the video while you are recording, reducing the need for audio editing and creating real-time audio experiences as part of your video. It is only compatible with the GoPro Hero 3, 3+ and 4 cameras. The microphone can capture voice and sound up to 110 yards and has a talk time of up to three hours.
Using the Sena GP10 GoPro Backpack
Connecting the GP10 is simple, attaching like any other GoPro accessory. Gently push the connector into the bus slot and hook the end over the camera to connect. Keep in mind that the USB jumper must be connected between the GP10 and the camera and, because the pack sticks out from the side of the camera a bit, it cannot be used with the waterproof housing that comes standard with the GoPro, but Sena makes an optional waterproof housing that will accommodate the jumper. Once the GP10 is connected, pair the GoPro by pressing and holding the pairing button until the status announcement lets you know it is connected. The instructions that come with the GP10 can be confusing, however. There are two switches on the back of the GP10, one to power the GP10 and another to turn the microphone on the GoPro itself.
Sena GP10 GoPro Backpack in Action
It is highly recommended that you don’t use the solo GP10 when recording ambient sound from the GoPro’s microphone as the wind noise quickly overwhelms the voice. Sena reports that an update will correct this problem in the future. There does not seem to be much difference between the “Normal” mode and the “Ultra HD Voice Recording Quality” mode.
Overall, the Sena GP10 GoPro Backpack works well and is an excellent accessory for those who wish to record narrative on their video in real-time. Even with the GP10, you will still want to add a video editing application if you are serious about recording action video as the GP10 does not eliminate the need for video editing. One area where the GP10 could be very beneficial is the creation of instructional videos where narrating what you are doing is very helpful for a beginner. To learn more about the Sena GP10 GoPro Packpack and other adventure accessories, visit my YouTube channel today.
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Where To Buy Used Motorcycles
If you have made the decision to buy a motorcycle, you have probably set your budget and decided what bike is best for your needs. For many people, the cost of a brand-new motorcycle is out of their price range so they decide to go with a used bike. However, you want to be sure you purchase a bike that is in good condition, mechanically sound and will last you a long time.
With so many options available to find used bikes, it can be difficult to decide the best place to go to purchase yours. These are some of the best places to find used motorcycles and some tips on what to watch for when you use these services. If you’re wondering how to buy a motorcycle, here is another great article.
Where Can I Buy Used Motorcycles Online?
Get Cheap Used Motorcycles On Craigslist
You can find almost any type of bike available on Craigslist but there are some precautions you should take. Many people who sell on Craigslist are unaware of the true value of what they are selling, so it is possible to get good bargains there.
However, there are also many people who believe the old bike they refurbished is worth much more than it actually is, so it is important to do your homework before you answer an ad. Also remember that Craigslist is a true “buyer beware” option. If the motorcycle fails mechanically in a few months, you have no recourse against the seller.
Buy Cheap Used Motorcycles On Ebay
If you are searching for a hard-to-find bike, Ebay may be your best option. The biggest benefit to Ebay is that you don’t have to talk to the seller until you are ready to buy. Questions can be answered through the Ebay message system. Even when you are ready to buy, you don’t need to talk to the seller. Simply purchase the bike, pay online and it will arrive at your door.
This means you never get to test drive the bike nor do you get to have it checked out mechanically before you purchase. Although Ebay does have buyer protections, it can be a difficult process to manage. The bikes on Ebay are historically more expensive and there could be shipping costs involved which could drive the cost up significantly.
Find “Motorcycles For Sale Near Me” In The Classifieds
Fewer people check classified advertisements as newspapers slowly fade into the background and are replaced with online news sources. One of the benefits to checking the classifieds is that anyone who places an ad for a bike is motivated to sell.
Classifieds require the seller to pay an up-front fee to place the ad, unlike Ebay, where you only pay if the bike sells, or Craigslist, where you don’t pay at all. There are often small, local companies that publish nothing but classifieds in flyers and booklets where you may find bargains on used bikes.
Buy Used Motorcycles From Local Dealers
Dealerships take trade-in bikes all the time, so they often have a large inventory of motorcycles available. Many dealers also offer limited warranties on used bikes so if there is a problem, you may not be left with the bill to repair it. Dealers also have a reputation to uphold, and although there are some bad dealerships, the majority work to make sure you are satisfied with your purchase.
Dealers can also help guide newer riders to bikes that are suited for them. Although dealership bikes may be more expensive due to the overhead the company must pay, having a dealer back the used bike is worth the added cost in the long run.
Cheap Motorcycles For Sale On Facebook Marketplace
Facebook Marketplace has become really popular for buying and selling motorcycles and motorcycle parts. You can discover bikes for sale near you. Easy to use on your phone or your desktop, and most people already have a Facebook account. In fact that is how I found my 2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 (Second Generation). With Facebook Marketplace you can search by brand, model, year, price, and distance from your location. Once you find a bike you’re interested in simply message the seller.
Bonus Buyer’s Tip: Depending on the sellers Facebook settings, you may be able to see a few extra pics of the motorcycle and its condition by checking out the sellers profile. Most motorcycle lovers are proud of our rides and will have multiple pics posted. Simply click on the sellers profile and view images.
Take a look at a few other places you can buy used sportbikes online:
The Best Apps to Buy Used Motorcycles
One option for selling your bike online, designed specifically for buying or selling motorcycles, is RumbleOn. The site is available as a mobile app that allows you to put in all the info about your bike, take photos and upload to the site. RumbleOn sends you a Cash Offer Voucher that is good for three days. If you agree, they come get the bike and handle all the paperwork.
CycleTrader is another app that allows you to sell motorcycles and also includes reviews cars available online.
These apps are available in the Apple or Google Play Store:
Google Play Store Apps
On Apple Itunes Apps
These are just a few places where you can find used motorcycles for sale. Word-of-mouth is another way to find bikes for sale. A friend may know a friend who wants to get rid of their bike or a co-worker may be looking at upgrading. If you want to learn more tips on buying used bikes, subscribe to my YouTube channel today.
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Beginner’s Guide To Shifting Gears On A Motorcycle
An underrated aspect of learning how to ride a motorcycle goes beyond turning and popping wheelies. No, it’s something seemingly much more simple than that. Do you shift? Sure, shifting gears should be easy, because it’s a basic function; but shifting gear does have a layer of complexity that beginning cyclists could have problems mastering right away.
Here’s everything you need to know about shifting gears on a motorcycle.Motorcycle Gears Basics
The three basic controls are ones that you might already know—the throttle, the clutch, and the gear selector. You use the throttle to rev the engine, the clutch to engage and disengage the brakes (transmission), and to select gears. For instance, if you pull the left hand clutch towards you, the engine revs without ever moving the bike.
The gear pattern can be clicked through by using the gear selector lever and is moved by your left foot. Most bikes have the following gears, starting with the lowest first:
• First gear
• Neutral
• Second gear
• Third gear
• Fourth gear
• Fifth gear
• Sixth gear (depending on the bike)
As you can see, shifting fears is sequential. Up or down, neutral (N) is always put between 1st and 2nd gear.Technique For Motorcycle Shifting
It’s best to learn the proper technique required to maneuver through shifting gears before learning how to do anything else.
Steps of the proper shifting technique:- Disengage the clutch. Use your left hand to pull it towards you.
- Select the correct gear by using your left food on the shifting lever.
- Slightly rev the engine if shifting up.
- Gradually release the clutch. Don’t pop it.
- Feather the throttle while releasing the clutch to accelerate smoothly.
- Continue revving if you which to switch to another gear in succession. Otherwise, find a nice cruising speed to maintain.
Shifting With Sound and Feel
Have you ever heard wailing motorcycle engines on the road? You’ve probably thought to yourself, “Is that rider even shifting?” That’s you using the basic rule of sound. In basic terms, if an engine starts to scream, you shift to an upper gear. If the engine starts to grumble, then shift the engine lower.
There a many methods to help you do this properly. Beginners should only focus on the simplest method. Afterwards, you can experiment.
Start off by riding in first gear. Try to sense to point when you need to switch to second gear. This means the engine isn’t yet screaming, but you are feeling the natural inclination to gain more speed. The clutch will disengage easily.
Should the engine start to scream, this means you’ve hit the red line, otherwise known as the built-in limiter. The limiter is placed in the engine to ensure the bike doesn’t overextend itself and burn up.
If you shift a gear up too soon, the bike could stall or choke. Restart the bike. Try again. Keep working through the gears until you can hear and feel when it is time to gear up.Shifting Smoothly
You will notice that there’s no mathematical equation to figure out the “when” behind shifting. Every bike has a unique behavior that depends on how you handle it. For instance, if the bike jerks when you release the clutch, you’re being too abrupt. If the bike tends to lurch during shifts, you’re applying too much throttle. If the motorcycle’s speed dips during shifting, you need to rev the engine more between gear changes. Pay attention to the clutch, throttle, and gear selector, because these all interact and are dependent on one another.
Mechanics of Movement
Let’s back-up for a moment. Now that you have this idea in your mind that you need to listen and feel and understand with muscle memory what to do when shifting, it’s time to talk about what is happening inside the bike while you’re doing the actions.
The clutch is the first thing you touch when it’s time to shift gears, unless you have an automatic motorcycle or a quick shift. Once the clutch is engaged, meaning the lever is out and power is send to the rear tie, little springs press on the clutch plate that connect the primary drive to the part that rotates from the pistons going up and down.
When you pull the lever, the plate separates and releases the connection to the motor. In this moment, you can change gears.
That’s when you take your foot and move the gear selector. On the gear selector is a piece called a collar that has “dogs.” This dogs mesh together with the fork in the same way you interlace your fingers. When you move your foot up and down on the selector, the dogs and fork connect to help change the gear. Then, you find the right gear and accelerate.
Keep this in mind while reading the next two sections about upshifting and downshifting.Upshifting
Most of this article has been devoted to upshifting. Upshifting is easier than downshifting, because you are accelerating. This means that if you do any of the steps of shifting a little too quick, there’s less of an impact. Of course, this could result in a sudden jolt of power to the rear wheel, causing the front tire to come off the ground.
(Note: You should only practice stunts in a controlled environment and when you have gained enough experience.)Downshifting
On the opposite end of upshifting is downshifting, which tends to go a little less smoothly. If you release the clutch too quickly while downshifting, the sudden downward change can cause the gear to slow down the rear tire, compressing the front end, and causing a lack of traction in the back end. You need to be able to control the release of the clutch.
Be careful when rounding corners and decreasing your gears for this reason. You don’t want to suddenly lose traction right when you need more grip on the asphalt. That could cause the bike to skid to the side.False Neutral
When downshifting, you could accidentally hit a false neutral. This can happen anywhere there shouldn’t be a neutral, including between 3rd and 4th or 4th and 5th and so on. This could happen if the dogs don’t connect with the fork when selecting gears. There is power loss to the rear wheel.
If you end up in a false neutral, pull on the clutch, and put the bike into a higher gear. You can prevent excessive damage to the bike. Be quick and make sure you move into the correct once you get out of false neutral.
With that, you should be able to master the basics of shifting. Practice the timing of the clutch release and working with the gear selector for a bit. You will soon be able to shift between gears like someone who has been riding for many years.
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Yamaha R1 vs R6: Which one is right for you?
When it comes to sport bikes, Yamaha has a reputation for producing some of the best in the market. Two of their most popular models, the R1 and R6, are often compared and debated among riders. Both bikes are powerful, sleek, and designed for high-performance riding, but there are some key differences that may make one a better fit for you than the other.
Engine and Performance
- The R1 is powered by a 998cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 200 horsepower and 82 lb-ft of torque. This engine is designed for high-performance riding and can propel the R1 from 0-60 mph in just over 2 seconds.
- The R6, on the other hand, is powered by a 599cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 120 horsepower and 43 lb-ft of torque. While still a powerful engine, the R6’s power output is more manageable for those new to sport riding.
- The R1’s engine is also equipped with Yamaha’s crossplane crankshaft technology, which gives it a unique and distinct character, and allows for smooth power delivery.
- The R6 also features advanced engine management system, which includes YCC-T, Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle, that allows the rider to experience a smooth and natural throttle response, making it easier to control.
- The R1 is geared more towards experienced riders who are looking for a high-performance bike that can handle the demands of track riding and fast-paced riding on the street. Its powerful engine and advanced features can be difficult to handle for those new to sport bikes.
- The R6, on the other hand, is more suited to those who are just starting out in sport riding or who prefer a more manageable power output. Its engine is designed to deliver a balance of performance and control, making it easier for riders to handle.
- Ultimately, the choice between the two engines will come down to the rider’s level of experience and their desired riding style. The R1’s engine is designed for experienced riders looking for a high-performance bike, while the R6’s engine is designed for those just starting out or who prefer a more manageable power output.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Engine Type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Displacement 998cc 599cc Bore x Stroke 78.0 x 52.2mm 67.0 x 42.5mm Compression Ratio 13.0 : 1 13.1 : 1 Maximum Power 200.0 HP @ 13,500 RPM 120.0 HP @ 14,500 RPM Maximum Torque 82.6 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM 43.0 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM Fuel System Fuel Injection Fuel Injection Lubrication Wet sump Wet sump Clutch Type Wet, multiple-disc Wet, multiple-disc Ignition TCI TCI Starting System Electric Electric Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Maximum Speed 186 mph 156 mph 0-60 mph 2.7 sec 3.4 sec Handling and Suspension
When it comes to handling, both the R1 and R6 are equipped with advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride. However, the R1’s suspension is slightly more advanced, with fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a link-type rear suspension that offers a wide range of adjustability. This allows experienced riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preferences and riding style.
One of the main differences between the R1 and R6 in terms of handling is the wheelbase and riding position. The R1 has a longer wheelbase and a more relaxed riding position. This makes it more stable at high speeds and allows for more control during straight-line riding. The longer wheelbase also helps to reduce the bike’s tendency to wheelie, which can be a concern for some riders.
The R6, on the other hand, has a shorter wheelbase and a more aggressive riding position. This makes it more agile in tight corners and better suited for sport riding. The shorter wheelbase allows the R6 to turn more quickly and with less effort, making it more responsive to rider inputs. The riding position also puts the rider in a more forward-leaning position, which can be more comfortable for some riders during long rides.
In summary, both the R1 and R6 have advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride, but the R1’s is slightly more advanced. The R1’s longer wheelbase and relaxed riding position make it more stable at high speeds, while the R6’s shorter wheelbase and aggressive riding position make it more agile in tight corners. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Front Suspension 43mm USD fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel 41mm fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Rear Suspension Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Front Brake Dual 320mm discs, 4-piston calipers Dual 310mm discs, 4-piston calipers Rear Brake 220mm disc, 2-piston caliper 220mm disc, 1-piston caliper Front Tire 120/70ZR17 120/70ZR17 Rear Tire 190/55ZR17 180/55ZR17 Rake 24.0° 24.0° Trail 4.0 in 3.5 in Wheelbase 55.1 in 54.3 in Seat Height 32.9 in 33.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Design and Features
When it comes to design, the R1 and R6 have different looks that appeal to different riders. The R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with sharp lines and aerodynamic features that give it a futuristic look. The R1 also has a more aerodynamic bodywork that helps to reduce wind resistance and improve stability at high speeds.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design. The R6’s design is more classic and timeless, which some riders prefer. It has a more understated look that does not shout for attention. The R6 design is focused on providing a smooth and aerodynamic riding experience.
When it comes to features, the R1 comes with a range of advanced features such as a quick-shifter, traction control, and a slipper clutch. These features allow riders to experience a more advanced level of riding and can help to improve performance and safety. The R1 also comes with a range of electronic rider aids, such as selectable power modes and launch control, that allows riders to customize the bike’s performance to their personal preferences and riding conditions.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more basic set of features. It comes with features such as ABS and a standard clutch. It’s more suited to riders who want a more traditional sport bike experience and prefer a more minimalist approach to features.
In summary, the R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with a range of advanced features that cater to experienced riders, while the R6 has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design, and a more basic set of features. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style. Some riders prefer the advanced features and modern design of the R1, while others prefer the more traditional look and basic features of the R6.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Dimensions (LxWxH) 80.9 in x 27.6 in x 45.3 in 80.9 in x 27.2 in x 43.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Fuel Capacity 4.5 gallons 4.5 gallons Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Color options Varies by model year Varies by model year Advance Features Traction control, quick-shifter, slipper clutch, ABS Traction control, quick-shifter, ABS Price and Value
When it comes to price, the R1 and R6 have different price points. The R1 is the more expensive of the two, with a starting price of around $16,000. This puts it in the higher end of the sport bike market. The R1’s higher price tag can be attributed to its advanced features and higher performance capabilities.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more affordable price point, with a starting price of around $12,000. This makes it more accessible to a wider range of riders, especially those on a budget. The R6’s more affordable price point does not mean that it’s any less of a bike, it’s still a great option for sport riding enthusiasts, and it’s still a great value for its price.
While the R1 may have more advanced features and higher performance, the R6 offers a great value for its price and is a great option for those who are looking for a sport bike that won’t break the bank. The R6 is a great choice for those who want to experience the thrill of sport riding without having to spend a lot of money.
In summary, the R1 is more expensive than the R6, and it has more advanced features and higher performance capabilities. However, the R6 offers great value for its price, and it’s a great option for those on a budget. Both the R1 and R6 are great sport bikes that cater to different riders, and the choice between the two will come down to personal preferences, riding style, and budget.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Starting Price $18,000 $12,000 Warranty 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) Insurance cost Varies by location and personal circumstances Varies by location and personal circumstances Maintenance cost Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required In conclusion, both the Yamaha R1 and R6 are excellent sport bikes, each with its own set of strengths and weaknesses. The R1 is geared towards experienced riders looking for high performance and advanced features, while the R6 is a great option for those just starting out or on a budget. Ultimately, the choice between the two will come down to your personal preferences and riding style.
