When it comes to motorcycle jackets, you want something that balances the need to look like you own the road and enough protection to keep you from becoming part of the road. Viking Cycle, a brand based out of California, has been turning heads with their attention to detail and security in their full range of motorcycle clothing for men and women. The best part is the price tag.
Overview of the Bloodaxe Motorcycle Jacket
Out of the box, the Bloodaxe looks awesome and feels awesome. When the jacket first goes on, you’ll notice it’s a bit stiff—but it does loosen up with some wear, as good leather should. The zippers have solid construction, open and close smoothly, and lay well when you’re riding.
The biggest advantage of the Viking Cycle Bloodaxe isn’t the awesome name but the amount of storage. You won’t believe the amount of storage space you have with this jacket. There’s so much, it’s almost ridiculous.
There is a headphone wire system that you can feed into the collar of the jacket, earphone pockets, a media player pocket, cellphone pocket with 3 second access, 2 knife and pen pockets, an eyeglass pocket, a pocket designed to find a 10-inch tablet, extendable keyholder, and another pocket that can fit travel documents and your wallet. The pockets have a unique “no bulge” design, so even if you somehow managed to stuff every single compartment this jacket has, it will still look flat and sleek and not like a bubble jacket. Overall, it sits nice on the body and doesn’t feel stifling.
The sizing does run a little small. Someone around 5 foot, 10 inches, 180 pounds will fall into the M-L range, depending on how much you want to bundle up. If you take out the thermal lining or don’t want to wear a lot of clothing underneath, you might want to size down to prevent the jacket from floating on you.
Specifications
(listed adapted from vikingcycle.com)
- Construction – Drum-dyed soft genuine cowhide leather (milled buffalo), padded shoulders, and Viking cycle level 1 removable “armor” on elbows and spine; two intake vents on the top of the shoulders and exhaust vents in the back
- External Storage – 2 zippered chest pockets, 2 zippered side pockets, and a single sleeve pocket
- Internal Storage – 2 secured zippered pockets and a secret compartment
- Adjustability – waist snaps and sleeve zippers
- Visibility – High viz stripes located on the back and shoulders
Pros
- Sag and wrinkle resistant
- Wind and water resistant
- Abrasion resistant
- A ton of hidden pockets on the internal side of the jacket
- CE marked armor in the back and shoulders – comfortable and stays in place while riding around
- Budget-friendly cost without a lack of quality and safety
- Stylish design
Cons
- Can be hot – the jacket has a thermal lining and is heavy, so it can be oppressive in the summertime even with the vents open. For that reason, it might not be ideal for moving in slower paced traffic;
- CE armor level could be higher.
Warranty Info
Viking Cycle offers a 1 year manufacturer’s warranty on all of their products. This means that any defects or imperfections that you find are covered. The warranty does not cover wear and tear or damages caused from improper care.
This might raise some questions about durability, since some production errors or faults can take a few days or weeks to appear.
If you start to notice something odd going on with the jacket that you didn’t cause, you can contact Viking Cycle at info@vikingcycle.com with the order number and a photo of the defect to get an exchange or refund.
Conclusion
Honestly, for the quality of the jacket, you would expect to pay more for it than you do. The name might be a bit for metal than what this motorcycle jacket offers, but the sleekness of the design, paired with the sound construction and unheard of amount of storage makes it a clear winner. If you’re looking for a balance of style and safety without breaking your bank, I recommend the Viking Bloodaxe motorcycle jacket for your wardrobe.
Looking for more details about choosing motorcycle jackets and other riding gear? Then check out and subscribe to my YouTube channel today!
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Yamaha R1 vs R6: Which one is right for you?
When it comes to sport bikes, Yamaha has a reputation for producing some of the best in the market. Two of their most popular models, the R1 and R6, are often compared and debated among riders. Both bikes are powerful, sleek, and designed for high-performance riding, but there are some key differences that may make one a better fit for you than the other.
Engine and Performance
- The R1 is powered by a 998cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 200 horsepower and 82 lb-ft of torque. This engine is designed for high-performance riding and can propel the R1 from 0-60 mph in just over 2 seconds.
- The R6, on the other hand, is powered by a 599cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 120 horsepower and 43 lb-ft of torque. While still a powerful engine, the R6’s power output is more manageable for those new to sport riding.
- The R1’s engine is also equipped with Yamaha’s crossplane crankshaft technology, which gives it a unique and distinct character, and allows for smooth power delivery.
- The R6 also features advanced engine management system, which includes YCC-T, Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle, that allows the rider to experience a smooth and natural throttle response, making it easier to control.
- The R1 is geared more towards experienced riders who are looking for a high-performance bike that can handle the demands of track riding and fast-paced riding on the street. Its powerful engine and advanced features can be difficult to handle for those new to sport bikes.
- The R6, on the other hand, is more suited to those who are just starting out in sport riding or who prefer a more manageable power output. Its engine is designed to deliver a balance of performance and control, making it easier for riders to handle.
- Ultimately, the choice between the two engines will come down to the rider’s level of experience and their desired riding style. The R1’s engine is designed for experienced riders looking for a high-performance bike, while the R6’s engine is designed for those just starting out or who prefer a more manageable power output.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Engine Type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Displacement 998cc 599cc Bore x Stroke 78.0 x 52.2mm 67.0 x 42.5mm Compression Ratio 13.0 : 1 13.1 : 1 Maximum Power 200.0 HP @ 13,500 RPM 120.0 HP @ 14,500 RPM Maximum Torque 82.6 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM 43.0 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM Fuel System Fuel Injection Fuel Injection Lubrication Wet sump Wet sump Clutch Type Wet, multiple-disc Wet, multiple-disc Ignition TCI TCI Starting System Electric Electric Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Maximum Speed 186 mph 156 mph 0-60 mph 2.7 sec 3.4 sec Handling and Suspension
When it comes to handling, both the R1 and R6 are equipped with advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride. However, the R1’s suspension is slightly more advanced, with fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a link-type rear suspension that offers a wide range of adjustability. This allows experienced riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preferences and riding style.
One of the main differences between the R1 and R6 in terms of handling is the wheelbase and riding position. The R1 has a longer wheelbase and a more relaxed riding position. This makes it more stable at high speeds and allows for more control during straight-line riding. The longer wheelbase also helps to reduce the bike’s tendency to wheelie, which can be a concern for some riders.
The R6, on the other hand, has a shorter wheelbase and a more aggressive riding position. This makes it more agile in tight corners and better suited for sport riding. The shorter wheelbase allows the R6 to turn more quickly and with less effort, making it more responsive to rider inputs. The riding position also puts the rider in a more forward-leaning position, which can be more comfortable for some riders during long rides.
In summary, both the R1 and R6 have advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride, but the R1’s is slightly more advanced. The R1’s longer wheelbase and relaxed riding position make it more stable at high speeds, while the R6’s shorter wheelbase and aggressive riding position make it more agile in tight corners. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Front Suspension 43mm USD fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel 41mm fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Rear Suspension Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Front Brake Dual 320mm discs, 4-piston calipers Dual 310mm discs, 4-piston calipers Rear Brake 220mm disc, 2-piston caliper 220mm disc, 1-piston caliper Front Tire 120/70ZR17 120/70ZR17 Rear Tire 190/55ZR17 180/55ZR17 Rake 24.0° 24.0° Trail 4.0 in 3.5 in Wheelbase 55.1 in 54.3 in Seat Height 32.9 in 33.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Design and Features
When it comes to design, the R1 and R6 have different looks that appeal to different riders. The R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with sharp lines and aerodynamic features that give it a futuristic look. The R1 also has a more aerodynamic bodywork that helps to reduce wind resistance and improve stability at high speeds.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design. The R6’s design is more classic and timeless, which some riders prefer. It has a more understated look that does not shout for attention. The R6 design is focused on providing a smooth and aerodynamic riding experience.
When it comes to features, the R1 comes with a range of advanced features such as a quick-shifter, traction control, and a slipper clutch. These features allow riders to experience a more advanced level of riding and can help to improve performance and safety. The R1 also comes with a range of electronic rider aids, such as selectable power modes and launch control, that allows riders to customize the bike’s performance to their personal preferences and riding conditions.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more basic set of features. It comes with features such as ABS and a standard clutch. It’s more suited to riders who want a more traditional sport bike experience and prefer a more minimalist approach to features.
In summary, the R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with a range of advanced features that cater to experienced riders, while the R6 has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design, and a more basic set of features. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style. Some riders prefer the advanced features and modern design of the R1, while others prefer the more traditional look and basic features of the R6.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Dimensions (LxWxH) 80.9 in x 27.6 in x 45.3 in 80.9 in x 27.2 in x 43.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Fuel Capacity 4.5 gallons 4.5 gallons Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Color options Varies by model year Varies by model year Advance Features Traction control, quick-shifter, slipper clutch, ABS Traction control, quick-shifter, ABS Price and Value
When it comes to price, the R1 and R6 have different price points. The R1 is the more expensive of the two, with a starting price of around $16,000. This puts it in the higher end of the sport bike market. The R1’s higher price tag can be attributed to its advanced features and higher performance capabilities.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more affordable price point, with a starting price of around $12,000. This makes it more accessible to a wider range of riders, especially those on a budget. The R6’s more affordable price point does not mean that it’s any less of a bike, it’s still a great option for sport riding enthusiasts, and it’s still a great value for its price.
While the R1 may have more advanced features and higher performance, the R6 offers a great value for its price and is a great option for those who are looking for a sport bike that won’t break the bank. The R6 is a great choice for those who want to experience the thrill of sport riding without having to spend a lot of money.
In summary, the R1 is more expensive than the R6, and it has more advanced features and higher performance capabilities. However, the R6 offers great value for its price, and it’s a great option for those on a budget. Both the R1 and R6 are great sport bikes that cater to different riders, and the choice between the two will come down to personal preferences, riding style, and budget.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Starting Price $18,000 $12,000 Warranty 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) Insurance cost Varies by location and personal circumstances Varies by location and personal circumstances Maintenance cost Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required In conclusion, both the Yamaha R1 and R6 are excellent sport bikes, each with its own set of strengths and weaknesses. The R1 is geared towards experienced riders looking for high performance and advanced features, while the R6 is a great option for those just starting out or on a budget. Ultimately, the choice between the two will come down to your personal preferences and riding style.
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What Is the Average Cost of Motorcycle Insurance?
Motorcycles are fun, and have become a bit of an American icon representing free spirits, independence and a fun personality. Who hasn’t, at one time, wanted one, or at least to try riding one?
Well, like with any vehicle, you’re going to have to be trained to ride it, and you’re going to need insurance, as with anything on the road. Insurance is a pain, of course. It’s one of those things you shell out hundreds of dollars a year for, and hope to powers above that you never wind up needing once you have it.
It’s necessary. When you’re on the road traveling at speeds of over sixty miles per hour, accidents can and will eventually happen. Humans make mistakes, and some are, to put it frankly, idiots who just drive or ride carelessly. Insurance protects you from said idiots.
Insurance is a necessary evil, so it’s not free. Before investing in your motorcycle, you should do your due diligence regarding what upkeep of your bike is going to cost you. This includes maintenance, plates, tags, your license and, most importantly of all, said insurance.So, how expensive is motorcycle insurance? There’s no clear-cut answer to that, because different companies will vary, and more importantly, factors about yourself will directly, linearly impact price in every situation.
Let’s take some time to talk about these. If you see yourself described in any of these with prices you find painful, it may not be time for a motorcycle yet, or some other luxury may have to be given up.
What’s the Difference?
You’re thinking, you have a car, you know what car insurance rates are like, is there honestly a difference between cars and bikes in this regard? And if so, why?
To answer your first question, yes, there’s a significant difference in all regards between cars and bikes, from obtaining the license, to maintaining it, all the way up to insurance. It’s a horse of a very different color.
As for why? Well, all vehicles are inherently, mostly equally dangerous. How they’re dangerous is a big one. Vehicles can be dangerous to their passengers, of course, and often are. Their bigger danger is inflicting that damage on another unsuspecting driver, pedestrian, or other thing they may collide with.
A motorcycle is more dangerous to its rider(s). Hitting anything stationary like walls, polls, buildings or trees in a car is something you stand a decent chance of surviving, as the giant metal box around you absorbs the shock. Doing so on a motorcycle isn’t so pretty.
You could also fall off one of them doing 60, or be hit by one of the idiots we mentioned earlier whom drive negligently. When a four wheel vehicle hits a motorcycle, it usually does damage the car, though often fairly superficially. The motorcycle and its rider(s) enjoy no such luck. Riding a motorcycle requires far more vigilant operation due to this risk, the dangers of larger vehicles, and a plague of drivers who don’t check for motorcycles.Check for motorcycles, America.
Insurance Pricing
Like we said, due to a lot of variables, there’s no way to predict with one hundred percent certainty what your price would be, even with a lot of criteria, as these prices tend to be calculated at the time by an agent, due to the impact of variables changing from time to time.
Thus, the pricing below is an average, or generality. They’re good enough to ballpark whether or not you have the budget to ride a motorcycle legally.
Cruiser or Touring Motorcycle
- 25-60 yo, Good Driving Record, Liability Only – This going to be the least expensive scenario, as liability is the minimal legal coverage possible, just as with home or car insurance. It’s not hard to qualify for this insurance if you have a clean or at least good driving record. It may be possible to get it cheaper through your car insurance provider, if you’re in good standing with them as a customer. Est. Price: $100-$500/year
- 25-60 yo, Good Driving Record, Full Coverage – Chances are, you’ll want to protect what you love, and that means additional coverage for repairs, replacements, theft and other such concerns, not just covering you legally in an accident. This makes the price go up a good bit, but for this particular customer bracket, less than you might expect. This too may be cheaper through your existing auto insurance provider. You may also cheapen it further via installing approved anti-theft devices, purchasing approved safety gear, and so on. Est. Price: $400-$800/year
- 25-60 yo, Bad Driving Record, Full Coverage – A bad record can really haunt you with insurance. Not only can it be hard to get liability (due to having a record of being one), but the price of the full coverage will be considerably higher. We can’t really even give you a reliable estimate here, because it all depends on which provider you approach, what kind of bad driving record it is that you have, and what kind of mood the agent is in when they quote the price. Suffice it to say, it will be very expensive, possibly unmanageably so, and there aren’t really any lifehacks to make it cheaper. Et. Price: Impossible to guess, but tremendously high!
Crotch Rocket Sports Motorcycle
- 16-24 yo, Good Driving Record, Full Coverage – A 16-year-old probably shouldn’t be on a motorcycle, especially not a crotch rocket of all things. At that age, if motorcycles are something they want to pursue as a hobby or way of life, they should be learning fundamentals on dirt bikes. However, in some states, it is legal under guardianship, and at 18, anyone can legally drive anything if they earn the license to do so. Inexperience (which for motorcycles often takes liability only off the table) raises prices quite a bit, and full coverage is itself quite expensive. Parents might be able to get prices lower if policies give them some of the responsibility, thus lowering the premiums a little, but really, this is just going to be expensive, no matter how you slice it. Est. Price: $900-$1200/year
Are you a long-time rider just seeing if you can find a better price for your motorcycle insurance? Are you someone who’s planning to get into biking? Did these prices make you rethink how interested you were? I’m curious to know, so subscribe to me on YouTube, and let me know somewhere in the comments if these prices are obscene, about what you expected, or quite a bit lower than you feared. Then stick around, if you still want to ride, I’ve got some great content to get you started with one of America’s great hobbies!
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What Every Rider Should Know About Road Rash
Road rash isn’t a punchline to a joke about bad motorcycle handling or old video game. Road rash, also called “friction burn,” is a serious injury. The severity of the wound is measured by degrees, the same as you would a chemical or fire burn. Since the skin is the largest organ of our bodies, getting road rash opens you up to other vulnerabilities, such as infection. But there is more to understand about road rash than these points.
Let’s look at this serious injury that can happen to anyone and learn how to classify and treat various types of road rash.
The Different Types of Road Rash
Not every bout of road rash is created equal. There are three main types of road rash:
- Avulsion – the skin is scraped away. Sometimes fat, muscle, and even bone will be exposed.
- Compression – where the body is caught between two objects, such as the motorcycle and the road. This results in bruising, broken bones, and damaged muscle.
- Open wound – usually require stitches. Open wound road rash might even require skin grafting.
Aside from the 3 different types, there are 3 degrees of damage:
- First degree – the first layer of the skin is red. Does not require medical treatment and will heal well enough on its own.
- Second degree – the first layer of skin, known as the epidermis, is broken. There can be bleeding and debris stuck in the wound. Usually requires little medical treatment and can heal with no scarring or lasting damage.
- Third degree – skin has been peeled away, leaving tissue, fat and sometimes bone exposed. Victims often need skin grafting.
The degrees of the crash depends on factors such as the force of the impact with the ground, the type of surface where the crash takes place, and whether safety gear was equipped.
Road rash will often occur in places that come in contact with the abrasive surface, either when attempting to catch oneself or when rolling or getting dragged. The outside of the legs, knees, palms, thighs, shoulders, and face are usually where road rash occurs.
Complications of Road Rash
Seek medical treatment immediately if you experience any of the following with road rash:
- Severe pain
- Inability to move affected region
- Cuts on the face that are larger than a ¼ inch
- Cuts on the body that are larger than a ½ inch
- Bleeding doesn’t stop
- Gaping wound remains opened with you relax the body
- Fat is visible in the exposed tissues
- Road rash is paired with other injuries, including possible concussion or broken bones.
Any open wound should be treated with antibiotics within six hours. Otherwise, you are at risk of infection.
Treatment and Recovery From Road Rash
Depending on the severity of the road rash, you can oftentimes treat it yourself. In that event, do the following:
- Stop any bleeding.
- Wash your hands with soap and water.
- Rinse the wound thoroughly.
- Wash the wound with soap, water, and then use some witch hazel.
- Apply a topical antibiotic.
- Bandage the wound.
- Change the dressing.
Note: During the recovery, the skin will undergo healing from the deepest layers to the top. It might get scabs. Do not pick the scabs. Instead, continue changing the bandages and applying topical antibiotics. Once the oozing stops, you can use petroleum jelly to keep the skin supple and lessen the scarring.
If you end up going to the doctor because of a deep wound, the medical professional might recommend using ibuprofen, a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), acetaminophen, or naproxen to deal with the pain.
Remember that because the skin has been opened by abrasion, you could be at risk for infection. Consider getting a tetanus shot. Tetanus boosters last 10 years, so if you had an injury where the epidermis or dermis of the skin has been injured, tetanus bacteria can enter the wound. At any time symptoms of infection begin, such as redness, swelling, warm or hot skin around the injury, tenderness, pain, or bloody ooze or yellowish pus, you could have an infection. Make sure to get to a doctor immediately.
Hopefully, you should now have an understanding of road rash and how serious it can be. Don’t ignore severe injuries after a fall. Drive safe and stay safe, so you can keep riding!
