Finding a Great Entry-Level Cycle Jacket - Viking Warlock Jacket Review
When critiquing motorcycle jackets, we have a tendency to judge them by the standards and needs of long-term, experienced cyclists. The unfortunate truth is that, for those just getting into motorcycling, these criteria may be a good bit different. For one thing, beginners will tend to spend somewhat less time on their bikes as they’re still getting a feel for them, and they’re less likely to be out there in the more extreme temperatures of high summer and mid-winter.
This means that some forgiveness in fitting and materials is called for when looking at a prospective first motorcycle jacket. In the case of the VikingCycle’s Warlock jacket, this may work out pretty well.
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The Look Of The Warlock Jacket
Well, let’s be honest with ourselves, we’re always going to demand that our jacket look really cool. It won’t do to look unstylish on our bikes, no matter if we’re a novice or a years-experienced rider. If the jacket doesn’t look good, nothing else matters. Maybe this isn’t the most prioritized way to think of things, but that’s just how it is.
While not the classic cruiser style so iconic in pop culture, this jacket does have a very modern classic vibe to it. It achieves a contemporary, unassuming but stylish look that blends many of the safety and comfort features of sport/street jackets, with the gentle form hugging and sleek nature that makes those cruiser jackets so beloved in the first place.
Moving forward, this even blend of these two styles will probably be somewhat timeless, which gives this jacket a unique future proof nature.
Comfort in a motorcycle jacket is a delicate balance. You don’t want to feel claustrophobic in the jacket, but at the same time, something too loose would have obvious problems. Similarly, you don’t want it to feel too bulky or heavy, but you want to feel like you’ve got something on. Finally, you want this balanced comfort to also provide good wind-cutting power, especially when it’s chilly out. Remember, the faster you go, the colder that air is going to be.
This jacket checks all but one of these boxes rather nicely. I felt like I had a solid jacket on, but I never felt claustrophobic, encumbered nor weighed down by it. The adjustable sleeves and collar meant that I didn’t feel like my circulation was cut off, but it still sealed me up well enough against the elements.
Unfortunately, the wind-cutting power of this jacket isn’t phenomenal, even with the liner in. It’s far from the worst, but in particularly chilly weather, the wind is still going to bite right into you with this jacket.
Motorcycle Jacket Safety
Safety is of course a big concern, especially for a beginner. This jacket manages to be pretty well-padded and abrasion-resistant, without feeling cumbersome. Granted, it’s not as fortified as a racing jacket, but I felt very safe in this jacket, especially thanks to the waist zipper that fastens to pants to provide a unified layer of protection.
It definitely passes my standards for safety, no question there.
VikingCycle’s Signature Rain Gear Fabric is a 100% 600D Polyester coated by PU (polyurethane). The 600D Polyester coated by PU, is also wind and water resistant so it will provide great protection against cold wind and rain and it will not sag and creates less wrinkle overtime. The fabric is light weight but highly resilient against abrasions to provide more resistance between the body and the road for your protection, and also stands against wear and tear for product durability.
Bells and Whistles
Finally, we come to the additional accoutrements this jacket offers. It’s not the most elaborate design out there, but it’s not without its charms.
- Large zipper tabs make it easy to operate the zippers with gloves on – something that can be exquisitely frustrating.
- Plenty of inside pockets for your phone, your wallet, etc. where they’re protected from the elements and impacts.
- Removable liner makes this jacket comfortable for warm and cool riding.
Warlock Jacket Textile Motorcycle Jacket Overview
Pros and Cons
Pros
- This is an affordable jacket, especially for the quality, which is a major deciding factor for the beginner motorcyclist.
- The inside pockets are a nice touch.
- The neutral, non-aggressive style is timeless, contemporary and pairs with any style of bike.
- The zippers are phenomenal.
Cons
- Removable liner takes most of the inner pockets with it, and doesn’t cut wind well.
- Velcro is used in stead of button clasps – this is a noisy material that wears out and accumulates “fuzz”.
- There are synthetic materials in the cuffs that may be less durable.
Warranty Information
VikingCycle takes the highest pride to provide the best motorcycle gear craftsmanship and material in the world. We always stand behind all our product quality. If you experience any manufacturing defects on any of our items, please let us know and return it for a replacement within 1 year of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any item damage due to normal wear and tear or improper care. Normal wear and tear is unavoidable and it is a sign that the product has been worn, such as small scratches or color change.
To claim any manufacturing defect warranty and to get your replacement as soon as possible, please let us know by emailing us at info@vikingcycle.com with your order number and a photo of the product defect.
Conclusion
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How To Use A Battery Tender
One of the most heartbreaking situations any car or motorcycle lover will experience is when you have beautiful riding or driving weather, are excited to hit the road, and the engine doesn’t turnover. The reason? Low battery power.
If you have a nifty gadget called a battery tender, you can recharge the battery and bring it back to life in no time. A battery tender is a friendlier alternative to traditional battery charges because of the technology housed within the device that is designed to prolong battery life.
Before you decide to buy a battery tender, though, let’s talk about what they are, what battery tenders do, and why you should have a maintenance charger for your motorcycle.
What Is A Battery Tender?
Also known as “float chargers” or “maintenance chargers,” battery tenders were first created by the U.S. company Deltran in 1965. What separates battery tenders from plain ol’ chargers is that these devices provide a constant voltage supply but also are controlled by processors. In other words, they are able to refrain from charging faulty batteries, use spark free technology, and have green and red indicators that help you understand what’s happening in just a glimpse.
A battery tender is the opposite of a trickle charger, an unsophisticated, less expensive option. Though the purpose is similar, a trickle charger doesn’t have microprocessor technology that prevents it from damaging the battery if you leave it charging for an extended period of time. Furthermore, you can use a battery tender when you plan on storing your motorcycle for several weeks on end, like over winter.
Keep in mind that a battery tender is not able to jump-start a long-dead battery. When this happens, you need a trickle charger.
For this reason, you can think of a battery tender as a trickle charge with a brain—the exact words of the original manufacturer, Deltran. Of course, there is more than one brand of battery tender available on the market.
For example, the DieHard Battery Charger/Maintainer is similar to a Battery Tender that employs things like Float Mode Monitoring to charge more than just motorcycles. Whichever model you choose, just make sure they have features like auto adjust amperage to help maintain the charge, easy to read indicator lights, and float mode monitoring.
Another good feature to look for is a quick connect pigtail that helps you connect to the terminal with ease.
Using A Battery Tender
Operating a battery tender is easy. To use a one of these devices, you just plug it into any standard AC outlet and use it to transfer power to the 12-volt battery in your motorcycle.
When preparing to use the battery tender, keep the AC and DC cords away from the vehicle. Keep the charger off until you have everything plugged in.
Depending on the motorcycle, the connections might differ, so refer to your owner manual. Once you have the battery tender connected to the correct posts on the battery, you can switch it on.
You should see indicator lights turn on, such as:
• Flashing red light – AC power and microprocessor is functioning properly. However, if the flashing continues, the voltage might be too low. Take a look to make sure the alligator clips are attached properly.
• Steady red light – The clamps are properly place and power is being transferred to your battery. The light will remain red until the battery is fully charged.
• Flashing green light – A flashing green light is often paired with a red light. This means the battery is about 80% charged and can be used.
• Steady green light – The charge is complete. You can keep the battery tender attached to the battery to help maintain the life of the battery if it will be sitting for an extended period of time.Quick note: If your battery has less than 3 volts, the battery tender won’t start. The battery should produce at least 3 volts. On the same note, if you have a standard 12 volt battery that is defunct and is producing less than 9 volts, the battery tender won’t work properly.
Other Considerations About Battery TendersNow, let’s clear up some frequently asked questions about battery tenders.
Many people ask, “Can I leave my motorcycle hooked up to a battery tender for a long time?” Although this was mentioned, it’s worth repeating: that’s what a battery tender is for. You can attach the tender and leave it alone without having to worry about the battery getting damaged. For example, you can go for a ride, return to the garage, attach the battery tender for a few days, then return two-three days later for another ride.
Second, you can also fire up the engine while the bike is hooked up to the battery tender. This is perfectly safe. If it’s on maintenance mode, though, you will want to detach the bike before starting it up.
Takeaway
Trickle chargers bring dead batteries back to life while battery tenders prevent batteries from losing power during periods of inactivity. Whether you use your bike every other day or less frequently, a battery tender will preserve the life of the battery to ensure your motorcycle is ready to ride whenever you need to hit the road. The straightforward usage makes it a wonderful investment for every motorcycle enthusiast.
Now that you’ve done you’re reading, it’s time to check out the motorcycle videos on my YouTube channel. Don’t forget to subscribe and receive notifications so you never miss an update!
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What Every Rider Should Know About Road Rash
Road rash isn’t a punchline to a joke about bad motorcycle handling or old video game. Road rash, also called “friction burn,” is a serious injury. The severity of the wound is measured by degrees, the same as you would a chemical or fire burn. Since the skin is the largest organ of our bodies, getting road rash opens you up to other vulnerabilities, such as infection. But there is more to understand about road rash than these points.
Let’s look at this serious injury that can happen to anyone and learn how to classify and treat various types of road rash.
The Different Types of Road Rash
Not every bout of road rash is created equal. There are three main types of road rash:
- Avulsion – the skin is scraped away. Sometimes fat, muscle, and even bone will be exposed.
- Compression – where the body is caught between two objects, such as the motorcycle and the road. This results in bruising, broken bones, and damaged muscle.
- Open wound – usually require stitches. Open wound road rash might even require skin grafting.
Aside from the 3 different types, there are 3 degrees of damage:
- First degree – the first layer of the skin is red. Does not require medical treatment and will heal well enough on its own.
- Second degree – the first layer of skin, known as the epidermis, is broken. There can be bleeding and debris stuck in the wound. Usually requires little medical treatment and can heal with no scarring or lasting damage.
- Third degree – skin has been peeled away, leaving tissue, fat and sometimes bone exposed. Victims often need skin grafting.
The degrees of the crash depends on factors such as the force of the impact with the ground, the type of surface where the crash takes place, and whether safety gear was equipped.
Road rash will often occur in places that come in contact with the abrasive surface, either when attempting to catch oneself or when rolling or getting dragged. The outside of the legs, knees, palms, thighs, shoulders, and face are usually where road rash occurs.
Complications of Road Rash
Seek medical treatment immediately if you experience any of the following with road rash:
- Severe pain
- Inability to move affected region
- Cuts on the face that are larger than a ¼ inch
- Cuts on the body that are larger than a ½ inch
- Bleeding doesn’t stop
- Gaping wound remains opened with you relax the body
- Fat is visible in the exposed tissues
- Road rash is paired with other injuries, including possible concussion or broken bones.
Any open wound should be treated with antibiotics within six hours. Otherwise, you are at risk of infection.
Treatment and Recovery From Road Rash
Depending on the severity of the road rash, you can oftentimes treat it yourself. In that event, do the following:
- Stop any bleeding.
- Wash your hands with soap and water.
- Rinse the wound thoroughly.
- Wash the wound with soap, water, and then use some witch hazel.
- Apply a topical antibiotic.
- Bandage the wound.
- Change the dressing.
Note: During the recovery, the skin will undergo healing from the deepest layers to the top. It might get scabs. Do not pick the scabs. Instead, continue changing the bandages and applying topical antibiotics. Once the oozing stops, you can use petroleum jelly to keep the skin supple and lessen the scarring.
If you end up going to the doctor because of a deep wound, the medical professional might recommend using ibuprofen, a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), acetaminophen, or naproxen to deal with the pain.
Remember that because the skin has been opened by abrasion, you could be at risk for infection. Consider getting a tetanus shot. Tetanus boosters last 10 years, so if you had an injury where the epidermis or dermis of the skin has been injured, tetanus bacteria can enter the wound. At any time symptoms of infection begin, such as redness, swelling, warm or hot skin around the injury, tenderness, pain, or bloody ooze or yellowish pus, you could have an infection. Make sure to get to a doctor immediately.
Hopefully, you should now have an understanding of road rash and how serious it can be. Don’t ignore severe injuries after a fall. Drive safe and stay safe, so you can keep riding!
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Motorcycle Basics: Before You Start Riding
Before even hopping on a motorcycle, it’s a smart decision to ride about the mechanics of the machine and familiarize yourself with key concepts. Having an idea in your head is going to come in handy when you’re faced with common beginner problems or later on when you’re on the road.
That’s how you really get a handle on the motorcycle. Let’s get started.Motorcycle Basic Controls
Most motorcycles have the same controls; but you should always check the owner’s manual since the locations and shapes of some features will vary between makes and models.
motorcycle controls indicators and equipment Motorcycle basic parts:
Handlebars
Right side:
- Electric start button – usually yellow or white.
- Engine cut-off switch – above the electric start button. Usually red.
- Above the right throttle is the front brake lever.
Left side:
- Horn
- Indicators (blinkers)
- Choke
- Headlight dip switch (high beams/low)
- Clutch lever.
Between the handlebars, you find the ignition key. Ahead of the handlebars, you will also see the speedometer, odometer, and the tachometer.
motorcycle handlebar controls 
motorcycle throttle Older Styles and Off-Road Bikes
Here’s some special considerations if you are on an older model or have an off-road bike:
Fuel petcock – these are usually attached to the left near the carburetor. You can lean down to switch the gas tank when the fuel is getting low and you need to get to the gas station ASAP.Kick starter – off-road bikes have kick starters more commonly than street bikes. The kick starter works when you push down on the lever, turning the engine crank and causing the pistons to put pressure against the spark plug. Fuel ignites to start the engine.
motorcycle shifting What To Check Before Your Ride Every Time
Professional schools throughout the country use the acronym T-CLOCs to help you remember what you should check before heading on your bike. These checks should be done at least once a year, depending on how often you are riding your bike. If you ride every single day, you will have to use T-CLOCs much more often.
- T – Tires
- C – (Main) Controls
- L – Lights & other controls
- O – Oil & other fluids
- C – Chassis
- S – Stands
Tires
Check the air pressure and look at the condition of the tires. Are they worn down? Cracking? What is the condition of the spokes? Do you note any air leakage?
Next, look at the rims, bearings, seals, and casts. Does each brake work as it should? Does the bike fight you when turning or slowing down?
Controls
The main controls include the handlebars, cables, hoses, levels, pedals, and throttle. Make sure the condition of the hoses is good and that everything is properly lubricated. The bars should be straight, and the throttle should move without resistance. Ensure the hoses aren’t cut or leaking. Any bulges, chafing, cracks or fraying of control cables needs to be repaired.
Lights & Other Controls
This includes the battery, wiring, tail and signal lights, switches, blinkers, headlight, and reflectors. Is everything illuminating? Do the blinkers flash right? Is fraying or kinks in the wiring? Are the beams strong enough in the dark?
Oil & Other Fluids
Check the gaskets and seals for any leaks. Ensure the oil level is good, along with other fluid levels. Check for sediment in the coolant reservoir.
Chassis
The chassis is made up of the frame, suspension, chains, belts, and fasteners. Nothing should rattle. Nothing should be frayed, cracking, peeling, or chipping. Ensure that everything is tight and that there is tension in the belts and chains.
Stands
Check for cracks or bends in the stands. Springs should hold their position without looseness.
Basic Mechanics of a Motorcycle
Being that a motorcycle rides on two wheels, it is designed to lean to either side. Through balance and input from the ride, the motorcycle maintains an upright position. Many beginners are afraid that the bike is going to fall over if they lean too far, but that’s not the case. Through the forces of physics, such as friction, momentum, and gravity, it’s nearly impossible for a bike that’s going to straight to fall over.
Engine
Another reason the motorcycle stays upright is the force of the pistons in the engine. These pistons move up and down, creating a force that helps the moving bike maintain it’s upward position.
Tires
The tires of motorcycles are designed to be rounded, ensuring that as the bike rounds a corner, the same surface area of the tire remains on the ground.
Chassis
For the beginner, all you need to know about the chassis is how to sit properly. When positioned properly on the bike, your wrists, knees, and back will be comfortable. You should also be able to engage your core and thigh muscles when using your body to maneuver.
Clutch
Most bikes are manual transmission. The clutch keeps the bike moving but also controls the speed by using friction. Clutches are usually bathed in the same oiled the engine uses, so if you ride the clutch for a while, you won’t cause damage. However, some bikes are different, so refer to the owner’s manual.
Wrapping It Up
For the new rider, your focus should be memorizing where the controls are and what certain parts of the bike do. By learning the general location, you can drive much more safely (and not while staring at the handlebars).
Remember, the everything takes practice. In the same way you learned to ride a bicycle, you need some patience with riding a motorcycle. With that, you’re ready to begin!
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