Be it a shower or deluge, rain can be your worst nightmare when on a motorcycle if you’re not properly prepared. During the spring and winter months, precipitation is unpredictable, and if you are in a rainy state, expect to get caught at least one shower while riding your bike. Rather than avoiding rainy days altogether, learn to ride your motorcycle in the rain.
Before The Ride
For maximum safety, inspect your bike to make sure it’s ready to tackle a ride in the rain.
• Fluids: Check your motorcycle to make sure there’s no brake fluid or oil leakage. While oil leaks aren’t very dangerous in dry conditions, when oil mixes with water, the road becomes a slick and dangerous course.
• Brakes: Make sure the brake pads have enough material left to help you with prompt stops in wet conditions.
• Tires: Check that your tires have enough tread to push water away and grip the road. You also want to ensure they have enough air pressure. Under or over-inflated tires react differently in water, but both are potentially dangerous.
Weatherproof Gear
In order to keep you and your bike safe, you should have the correct riding gear and attire ready to go. You can choose between water-resistant and waterproof items. Water-resistant will shed water, but after a period of time, water will begin to permeate the material. Waterproof, on the other hand, will never allow for water to absorb into the material, unless you get completely submerged in water.
• Water-resistant or Waterproof Gear: Jackets and one piece suits should be zipped up tightly when riding in the rain to prevent water from seeping. Zippers should have a flap that covers the edges to protect the interstices. Cuffs on the jacket or coat need to be long enough to reach your gloves.
• Riding Boots and Gloves: More effective deterrents against complete saturation of your clothes. Both boots and gloves need to be tight enough to prevent water from dripping through. No one likes cold, wet socks.
• Helmets and Goggles: For the best protection, get a full-faced helmet. If you have a ½ or ¾ face helmet, get a pair of goggles. Pair the goggles with a waterproof balaclava that can shed water away from your face.
• Miscellaneous: If you have a saddlebag or storage unit, consider keeping a change of dry clothes with you. Also, keep plastic bags with you to keep valuables dry if you happen to get caught in a sudden rainstorm. Dry bags or waterproof backpacks can also help.
Be Cautious Of Road Conditions
Wet roads are dangerous for motorcyclists and other vehicle drivers, regardless of how prepared you may be. Even when the roads appear clean, they could be slick from oil. Here are some things to consider when traveling by motorcycle in the rain:
Less Traction
The first hour of rainfall is the most dangerous, because oils absorbed into the asphalt rise to the surface. During this time, it’s best to pullover at a rest stop about wait for about an hour. Once the rain has washed the road of oil and debris, you can head out again. Remember that this also means an increased braking distance.
Less Visibility
Sometimes, the fog or mist is too dense, or the rain is falling so hard you or other drivers can’t see. You can make yourself more visible to the traffic around you by wearing high visibility clothing and reflective patches.
Hydroplaning Risk
Hydroplaning occurs when water prevents the tire from making contact with the road. Reduce the risk of hydroplaning by avoiding painted lines, manhole covers, iridescent patches on the road and puddles (oil), tar snakes, metal crossing, and other places with reduced traction.
Also, you should reduce your speed when approaching puddles you can’t maneuver around. Start slowing down, squeeze the clutch, then coast through the puddle. If you’re going too fast, it’s better to maintain that velocity rather than slowing down abruptly, as this will reduce friction could cause fishtailing.
Decrease the risk of hydroplaning further with all-weather tires.
Nature’s Wrath
Stay aware of lightning, hail, ice, sleet, and other conditions that could transpire in a rainstorm. High winds can cause debris to fall into the road, and you might not see it due to decreased visibility. If it starts lightning, pull over.
Conclusion
Not every day is going to be perfect riding weather. Planning ahead and being prepared goes a long way when dealing with rainy conditions. Not only will you stay dry, but you will arrive at your destination safely.
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Beginner’s Guide To Shifting Gears On A Motorcycle
An underrated aspect of learning how to ride a motorcycle goes beyond turning and popping wheelies. No, it’s something seemingly much more simple than that. Do you shift? Sure, shifting gears should be easy, because it’s a basic function; but shifting gear does have a layer of complexity that beginning cyclists could have problems mastering right away.
Here’s everything you need to know about shifting gears on a motorcycle.Motorcycle Gears Basics
The three basic controls are ones that you might already know—the throttle, the clutch, and the gear selector. You use the throttle to rev the engine, the clutch to engage and disengage the brakes (transmission), and to select gears. For instance, if you pull the left hand clutch towards you, the engine revs without ever moving the bike.
The gear pattern can be clicked through by using the gear selector lever and is moved by your left foot. Most bikes have the following gears, starting with the lowest first:
• First gear
• Neutral
• Second gear
• Third gear
• Fourth gear
• Fifth gear
• Sixth gear (depending on the bike)
As you can see, shifting fears is sequential. Up or down, neutral (N) is always put between 1st and 2nd gear.Technique For Motorcycle Shifting
It’s best to learn the proper technique required to maneuver through shifting gears before learning how to do anything else.
Steps of the proper shifting technique:- Disengage the clutch. Use your left hand to pull it towards you.
- Select the correct gear by using your left food on the shifting lever.
- Slightly rev the engine if shifting up.
- Gradually release the clutch. Don’t pop it.
- Feather the throttle while releasing the clutch to accelerate smoothly.
- Continue revving if you which to switch to another gear in succession. Otherwise, find a nice cruising speed to maintain.
Shifting With Sound and Feel
Have you ever heard wailing motorcycle engines on the road? You’ve probably thought to yourself, “Is that rider even shifting?” That’s you using the basic rule of sound. In basic terms, if an engine starts to scream, you shift to an upper gear. If the engine starts to grumble, then shift the engine lower.
There a many methods to help you do this properly. Beginners should only focus on the simplest method. Afterwards, you can experiment.
Start off by riding in first gear. Try to sense to point when you need to switch to second gear. This means the engine isn’t yet screaming, but you are feeling the natural inclination to gain more speed. The clutch will disengage easily.
Should the engine start to scream, this means you’ve hit the red line, otherwise known as the built-in limiter. The limiter is placed in the engine to ensure the bike doesn’t overextend itself and burn up.
If you shift a gear up too soon, the bike could stall or choke. Restart the bike. Try again. Keep working through the gears until you can hear and feel when it is time to gear up.Shifting Smoothly
You will notice that there’s no mathematical equation to figure out the “when” behind shifting. Every bike has a unique behavior that depends on how you handle it. For instance, if the bike jerks when you release the clutch, you’re being too abrupt. If the bike tends to lurch during shifts, you’re applying too much throttle. If the motorcycle’s speed dips during shifting, you need to rev the engine more between gear changes. Pay attention to the clutch, throttle, and gear selector, because these all interact and are dependent on one another.
Mechanics of Movement
Let’s back-up for a moment. Now that you have this idea in your mind that you need to listen and feel and understand with muscle memory what to do when shifting, it’s time to talk about what is happening inside the bike while you’re doing the actions.
The clutch is the first thing you touch when it’s time to shift gears, unless you have an automatic motorcycle or a quick shift. Once the clutch is engaged, meaning the lever is out and power is send to the rear tie, little springs press on the clutch plate that connect the primary drive to the part that rotates from the pistons going up and down.
When you pull the lever, the plate separates and releases the connection to the motor. In this moment, you can change gears.
That’s when you take your foot and move the gear selector. On the gear selector is a piece called a collar that has “dogs.” This dogs mesh together with the fork in the same way you interlace your fingers. When you move your foot up and down on the selector, the dogs and fork connect to help change the gear. Then, you find the right gear and accelerate.
Keep this in mind while reading the next two sections about upshifting and downshifting.Upshifting
Most of this article has been devoted to upshifting. Upshifting is easier than downshifting, because you are accelerating. This means that if you do any of the steps of shifting a little too quick, there’s less of an impact. Of course, this could result in a sudden jolt of power to the rear wheel, causing the front tire to come off the ground.
(Note: You should only practice stunts in a controlled environment and when you have gained enough experience.)Downshifting
On the opposite end of upshifting is downshifting, which tends to go a little less smoothly. If you release the clutch too quickly while downshifting, the sudden downward change can cause the gear to slow down the rear tire, compressing the front end, and causing a lack of traction in the back end. You need to be able to control the release of the clutch.
Be careful when rounding corners and decreasing your gears for this reason. You don’t want to suddenly lose traction right when you need more grip on the asphalt. That could cause the bike to skid to the side.False Neutral
When downshifting, you could accidentally hit a false neutral. This can happen anywhere there shouldn’t be a neutral, including between 3rd and 4th or 4th and 5th and so on. This could happen if the dogs don’t connect with the fork when selecting gears. There is power loss to the rear wheel.
If you end up in a false neutral, pull on the clutch, and put the bike into a higher gear. You can prevent excessive damage to the bike. Be quick and make sure you move into the correct once you get out of false neutral.
With that, you should be able to master the basics of shifting. Practice the timing of the clutch release and working with the gear selector for a bit. You will soon be able to shift between gears like someone who has been riding for many years.
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More Than Just a Number: Evaluating Motorcycle Performance Beyond Top Speed
In the world of motorcycles, the allure of top speed is undeniable. Images of sleek machines blurring across racetracks and boasting impressive numbers often dominate the conversation. However, for many riders, true performance goes beyond simply hitting the highest speedometer reading. Just like a good book isn’t judged solely by its length, a motorcycle’s true capabilities extend far beyond a single metric.
Key Takeaways
- Top speed isn’t the only measure of motorcycle performance. Consider factors like acceleration, handling, braking performance, and power-to-weight ratio to find the perfect bike for your needs.
- Different riding styles prioritize different performance aspects: acceleration for city riding, handling for navigation, braking for safety, and power-to-weight ratio for sport riding.
- Choose a motorcycle that aligns with your individual riding style and preferences for the most enjoyable and fulfilling experience.
Comparison Table: Conventional vs. Unconventional Motorcycle Performance Measures
Feature Conventional Unconventional Focus Top Speed Acceleration, Handling, Braking, Power-to-Weight Ratio Relevance Limited More comprehensive picture, caters to various riding styles Examples MPH (km/h) 0-60 mph (0-100 km/h) time, suspension travel, braking distance, horsepower per kilogram This article delves deeper, exploring unconventional measures of motorcycle performance that cater to various riding styles and needs. While top speed has its place, focusing solely on this number can paint an incomplete picture of a motorcycle’s true potential. Here are some key performance factors to consider:
1. Acceleration:
The thrill of the launch, the surge of power as you twist the throttle, is an essential part of the riding experience. Acceleration, measured in seconds from 0 to 60 mph or 0 to 100 km/h, indicates how quickly a motorcycle can gain speed. This metric is particularly important for city riding and overtaking maneuvers, offering confidence and responsiveness in everyday situations.
2. Handling:
The ability of a motorcycle to carve through corners with precision and stability is crucial for a confident and enjoyable ride. Handling encompasses factors like suspension, steering geometry, and tire grip. A well-handling motorcycle feels planted and predictable, allowing riders to navigate curves confidently and explore the twisties with ease.
3. Braking Performance:
The ability to slow down effectively and safely is paramount for any motorcycle. Braking performance is measured by the distance it takes a motorcycle to come to a complete stop from a specific speed. Powerful and responsive brakes inspire confidence, especially on mountain roads or in unexpected situations.
4. Power-to-Weight Ratio:
This metric combines engine power and motorcycle weight. A higher power-to-weight ratio signifies a lighter bike with more power, translating to better acceleration, agility, and overall responsiveness. This factor is especially relevant for sport-oriented riding and track days, where quick maneuvering and responsiveness are crucial.
Finding the Right Balance:
Finding the Right Balance:
The ideal combination of these performance metrics depends on your individual riding style and preferences. Tourers might prioritize comfort and long-distance capabilities, while track riders might seek razor-sharp handling and agile responsiveness.
6 FAQs About Unconventional Motorcycle Performance Measures
1. What’s the difference between horsepower and torque?
Horsepower measures an engine’s ability to generate power, while torque measures its twisting force. Both contribute to a motorcycle’s performance, with a good balance being ideal.
2. How does suspension affect handling?
Suspension plays a crucial role in absorbing bumps and maintaining tire contact with the road, leading to improved stability and control.
3. Are ABS brakes important?
Anti-lock braking systems (ABS) help prevent wheel lockup during hard braking, providing increased control and shorter stopping distances, especially in slippery conditions.
4. What’s the ideal power-to-weight ratio for me?
A higher power-to-weight ratio generally translates to better acceleration and agility. However, consider your riding style and skill level. A lighter, more powerful bike might be harder to handle for beginners.
5. How can I test a motorcycle’s performance before buying?
Many dealerships offer test rides so you can experience the motorcycle’s performance firsthand. Consider different models and riding scenarios to find the best fit.
6. What are some safety considerations when evaluating motorcycle performance?
Always prioritize safety first. Focus on factors like braking performance, handling, and visibility to ensure a safe and enjoyable riding experience.
Facts & Statistics: Motorcycle Usage and Performance Preferences
- 70% of motorcycle owners use their bikes for leisure riding. (https://www.statista.com/study/91633/motorcycles-report/)
- 30% of motorcycle owners commute to work on their bikes. (https://www.statista.com/study/91633/motorcycles-report/)
- Among sportbike owners, 65% prioritize handling and agility, while 42% prioritize acceleration. (https://www.statista.com/study/91633/motorcycles-report/)
By understanding these unconventional measures and evaluating them against your needs, you can make a more informed decision when choosing a motorcycle that perfectly aligns with your riding experience. Remember, the fastest motorcycle on the market isn’t always the “best” for everyone. Ultimately, the perfect motorcycle is the one that delivers the performance characteristics that bring you the most enjoyment and confidence on the road.
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HJC IS-17 Motorcycle Helmet Review
The HJC IS-17 helmet is one of the most popular in HJC street helmets, made of advanced polycarbonate composite and with a new 3D face shield design. It is kind of a mixture of the HJC FG-17 and the HJC CL-17, although the FG-17 has a fiberglass composite shell and the IS-17 has a different fit than both the CL-17 and FG-17. Although the IS-17 has a comfortable fit and a sun visor that provides excellent coverage, it does not have good ventilation and the internal sun visor means it does not have Snell certification.
HJC IS-17 Motorcycle Helmet Overall Quality
All the parts of the IS-17 move together well despite the fact that the recommended retail price is around $162. Despite the cost, the paint and finish are good quality and comparable to helmets that are similarly priced, although it should not be compared to higher priced helmets like Arai or Shoei. The chin curtain, like the CL-17, is an option, although for a few extra dollars, it could be included as standard. The pinlock insert is also an option, although it is not as critical as the chin curtain. The clear plastic face shield has some waviness and clouding that could result in a visibility problem. In addition to the face shield, the fact that 85 percent of the vent holes are blocked is an issue. Very little air flows through the vents to the rider and the fabric liner across the top blocks the top vent.
Click Here For HJC Helmets 2017 Catalog
Helmet Fit, Internal Shape and Liner
The sizing seems slightly off in the IS-17 with an “XL” fitting more like an “L” and the internal shape feels mostly “neutral” rather than “slightly round” like other HJC helmets. This may be due to the sun visor at the forehead which gives a feeling of less room inside the helmet and a snug fit. The interior is nicely padded and the fabric comfortable. You can remove the cheek pads and liner for washing. There are also optional cheek pads in sizes that range from XS, at 40 mm thickness, to XXL, at 25 mm thickness.
HJC IS-17 Face Shield, Outward VisibilityThe face shield operation in the IS-17 is exactly the same as the FG-17 with a center locking lift tab that works fine on the helmet. The center locking lift tab also allows you to adjust for city positions or for an initial defogging. It does have waviness that could affect visibility and which some riders may find unacceptable. The eye ports seem to be slightly better than average despite the sun visor. Once the shield is locked shut, it seals tightly around the eye port gasket. Water drains away from the rider along the top of the gasket and along the sides through a rotating mechanism. The face shield is easy to remove and can be replaced with optional mirrored or tinted face shields.
Helmet Ventilation and Air Flow
Ventilation and air flow in the helmet is one of the biggest problems. The top vent looks as if it should draw in a lot of air but the holes through the lining do not come close to lining up with the vents. In addition, the fabric liner blocks the vent holes to the point that even if air came into the helmet, you would not feel it because the holes are covered. This is not only true of the top vent, but also for the rear exhaust vents. The chin vent does direct air up, but it is an option with a price of between $4 and $5, something that is worth the added cost.
How are the Helmet Sound Levels?The HJC IS-17 is quieter than most helmets with general wind noise around the sides. However, since the fit is tighter than other HJC helmets, it keeps the noise levels low. It works well as a windscreen and has low turbulence noise as well. Because the top vent holes are blocked, there is very little noise from the top of the helmet.
Although most of the features of the IS-17 make it a good option, the fact that it does not have the Snell M2010 rating is a major drawback. Studies have shown that nearly 23 percent of helmet impacts are in the forehead region where the internal sun visor sits. In addition, the top vent system and the wavy face plate present significant problems.
HJC IS-17 Face Shield, Outward Visibility
How are the Helmet Sound Levels?
