The HJC IS-17 helmet is one of the most popular in HJC street helmets, made of advanced polycarbonate composite and with a new 3D face shield design. It is kind of a mixture of the HJC FG-17 and the HJC CL-17, although the FG-17 has a fiberglass composite shell and the IS-17 has a different fit than both the CL-17 and FG-17. Although the IS-17 has a comfortable fit and a sun visor that provides excellent coverage, it does not have good ventilation and the internal sun visor means it does not have Snell certification.
HJC IS-17 Motorcycle Helmet Overall Quality
All the parts of the IS-17 move together well despite the fact that the recommended retail price is around $162. Despite the cost, the paint and finish are good quality and comparable to helmets that are similarly priced, although it should not be compared to higher priced helmets like Arai or Shoei. The chin curtain, like the CL-17, is an option, although for a few extra dollars, it could be included as standard. The pinlock insert is also an option, although it is not as critical as the chin curtain. The clear plastic face shield has some waviness and clouding that could result in a visibility problem. In addition to the face shield, the fact that 85 percent of the vent holes are blocked is an issue. Very little air flows through the vents to the rider and the fabric liner across the top blocks the top vent.
Click Here For HJC Helmets 2017 Catalog
Helmet Fit, Internal Shape and Liner
The sizing seems slightly off in the IS-17 with an “XL” fitting more like an “L” and the internal shape feels mostly “neutral” rather than “slightly round” like other HJC helmets. This may be due to the sun visor at the forehead which gives a feeling of less room inside the helmet and a snug fit. The interior is nicely padded and the fabric comfortable. You can remove the cheek pads and liner for washing. There are also optional cheek pads in sizes that range from XS, at 40 mm thickness, to XXL, at 25 mm thickness.
HJC IS-17 Face Shield, Outward Visibility
HJC IS-17 Face Shield, Outward VisibilityThe face shield operation in the IS-17 is exactly the same as the FG-17 with a center locking lift tab that works fine on the helmet. The center locking lift tab also allows you to adjust for city positions or for an initial defogging. It does have waviness that could affect visibility and which some riders may find unacceptable. The eye ports seem to be slightly better than average despite the sun visor. Once the shield is locked shut, it seals tightly around the eye port gasket. Water drains away from the rider along the top of the gasket and along the sides through a rotating mechanism. The face shield is easy to remove and can be replaced with optional mirrored or tinted face shields.
Helmet Ventilation and Air Flow
Ventilation and air flow in the helmet is one of the biggest problems. The top vent looks as if it should draw in a lot of air but the holes through the lining do not come close to lining up with the vents. In addition, the fabric liner blocks the vent holes to the point that even if air came into the helmet, you would not feel it because the holes are covered. This is not only true of the top vent, but also for the rear exhaust vents. The chin vent does direct air up, but it is an option with a price of between $4 and $5, something that is worth the added cost.
How are the Helmet Sound Levels?
How are the Helmet Sound Levels?The HJC IS-17 is quieter than most helmets with general wind noise around the sides. However, since the fit is tighter than other HJC helmets, it keeps the noise levels low. It works well as a windscreen and has low turbulence noise as well. Because the top vent holes are blocked, there is very little noise from the top of the helmet.
Although most of the features of the IS-17 make it a good option, the fact that it does not have the Snell M2010 rating is a major drawback. Studies have shown that nearly 23 percent of helmet impacts are in the forehead region where the internal sun visor sits. In addition, the top vent system and the wavy face plate present significant problems.
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What Is the Average Cost of Motorcycle Insurance?
Motorcycles are fun, and have become a bit of an American icon representing free spirits, independence and a fun personality. Who hasn’t, at one time, wanted one, or at least to try riding one?
Well, like with any vehicle, you’re going to have to be trained to ride it, and you’re going to need insurance, as with anything on the road. Insurance is a pain, of course. It’s one of those things you shell out hundreds of dollars a year for, and hope to powers above that you never wind up needing once you have it.
It’s necessary. When you’re on the road traveling at speeds of over sixty miles per hour, accidents can and will eventually happen. Humans make mistakes, and some are, to put it frankly, idiots who just drive or ride carelessly. Insurance protects you from said idiots.
Insurance is a necessary evil, so it’s not free. Before investing in your motorcycle, you should do your due diligence regarding what upkeep of your bike is going to cost you. This includes maintenance, plates, tags, your license and, most importantly of all, said insurance.So, how expensive is motorcycle insurance? There’s no clear-cut answer to that, because different companies will vary, and more importantly, factors about yourself will directly, linearly impact price in every situation.
Let’s take some time to talk about these. If you see yourself described in any of these with prices you find painful, it may not be time for a motorcycle yet, or some other luxury may have to be given up.
What’s the Difference?
You’re thinking, you have a car, you know what car insurance rates are like, is there honestly a difference between cars and bikes in this regard? And if so, why?
To answer your first question, yes, there’s a significant difference in all regards between cars and bikes, from obtaining the license, to maintaining it, all the way up to insurance. It’s a horse of a very different color.
As for why? Well, all vehicles are inherently, mostly equally dangerous. How they’re dangerous is a big one. Vehicles can be dangerous to their passengers, of course, and often are. Their bigger danger is inflicting that damage on another unsuspecting driver, pedestrian, or other thing they may collide with.
A motorcycle is more dangerous to its rider(s). Hitting anything stationary like walls, polls, buildings or trees in a car is something you stand a decent chance of surviving, as the giant metal box around you absorbs the shock. Doing so on a motorcycle isn’t so pretty.
You could also fall off one of them doing 60, or be hit by one of the idiots we mentioned earlier whom drive negligently. When a four wheel vehicle hits a motorcycle, it usually does damage the car, though often fairly superficially. The motorcycle and its rider(s) enjoy no such luck. Riding a motorcycle requires far more vigilant operation due to this risk, the dangers of larger vehicles, and a plague of drivers who don’t check for motorcycles.Check for motorcycles, America.
Insurance Pricing
Like we said, due to a lot of variables, there’s no way to predict with one hundred percent certainty what your price would be, even with a lot of criteria, as these prices tend to be calculated at the time by an agent, due to the impact of variables changing from time to time.
Thus, the pricing below is an average, or generality. They’re good enough to ballpark whether or not you have the budget to ride a motorcycle legally.
Cruiser or Touring Motorcycle
- 25-60 yo, Good Driving Record, Liability Only – This going to be the least expensive scenario, as liability is the minimal legal coverage possible, just as with home or car insurance. It’s not hard to qualify for this insurance if you have a clean or at least good driving record. It may be possible to get it cheaper through your car insurance provider, if you’re in good standing with them as a customer. Est. Price: $100-$500/year
- 25-60 yo, Good Driving Record, Full Coverage – Chances are, you’ll want to protect what you love, and that means additional coverage for repairs, replacements, theft and other such concerns, not just covering you legally in an accident. This makes the price go up a good bit, but for this particular customer bracket, less than you might expect. This too may be cheaper through your existing auto insurance provider. You may also cheapen it further via installing approved anti-theft devices, purchasing approved safety gear, and so on. Est. Price: $400-$800/year
- 25-60 yo, Bad Driving Record, Full Coverage – A bad record can really haunt you with insurance. Not only can it be hard to get liability (due to having a record of being one), but the price of the full coverage will be considerably higher. We can’t really even give you a reliable estimate here, because it all depends on which provider you approach, what kind of bad driving record it is that you have, and what kind of mood the agent is in when they quote the price. Suffice it to say, it will be very expensive, possibly unmanageably so, and there aren’t really any lifehacks to make it cheaper. Et. Price: Impossible to guess, but tremendously high!
Crotch Rocket Sports Motorcycle
- 16-24 yo, Good Driving Record, Full Coverage – A 16-year-old probably shouldn’t be on a motorcycle, especially not a crotch rocket of all things. At that age, if motorcycles are something they want to pursue as a hobby or way of life, they should be learning fundamentals on dirt bikes. However, in some states, it is legal under guardianship, and at 18, anyone can legally drive anything if they earn the license to do so. Inexperience (which for motorcycles often takes liability only off the table) raises prices quite a bit, and full coverage is itself quite expensive. Parents might be able to get prices lower if policies give them some of the responsibility, thus lowering the premiums a little, but really, this is just going to be expensive, no matter how you slice it. Est. Price: $900-$1200/year
Are you a long-time rider just seeing if you can find a better price for your motorcycle insurance? Are you someone who’s planning to get into biking? Did these prices make you rethink how interested you were? I’m curious to know, so subscribe to me on YouTube, and let me know somewhere in the comments if these prices are obscene, about what you expected, or quite a bit lower than you feared. Then stick around, if you still want to ride, I’ve got some great content to get you started with one of America’s great hobbies!
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How To Start A Yamaha R6
Starting a motorcycle is easier than it used to be, thanks to technology. While there are various kinds of bikes, starting a Yamaha R6 or other fuel-injected motorcycles is more or less then same across the board.
Here is how you start a fuel-injected motorcycle, like the Yamaha R6:
How To Start A Yamaha R6 Starting The Engine of a Yamaha R6
You can find this information in the owner’s manual of your bike, too. Before starting the bike, make sure you have done the following:
- The transmission is in neutral.
- The transmission is in gear, the clutch is pulled, and the kickstand/sidestand is stowed. Some modern models, Yamaha included, have a safety feature that will prevent the bike from starting if the sidestand hasn’t been raised.
Next, follow these steps precisely:
- Insert the key into the ignition.
- Turn the key to the ON position. Make sure the engine stop switch is set to the correct position.
- Warning lights and indicator lights should illuminate momentarily then disappear if conditions are satisfactory. These lights include:
- Oil level
- Coolant temperature
- Fuel level
- Shift timing
- Engine problems
- Immobilizer system
- Shift the transmission into neutral. The light should come on. If not, you might have an electrical circuit problem.
- Start the engine with the start switch.
- In the event of failure, wait a few seconds and try another start. Don’t draw out the time trying to start the engine to preserve battery power. Do not extend for more than 10 seconds.
General Instructions for a Fuel-Injected Motorcycle
Here’s some instructions to follow if you don’t have the make/model mentioned above:
How To Start A Motorcycle
- Put the motorcycle in neutral. Neutral is always located between 1st and 2nd gear.
- Put the key in the ignition if necessary.
* Note: Fuel-injected motorcycles have an engine management system. This means you don’t have to worry about using the choke lever. Only a small amount of throttle will be needed, regardless of engine temperature. - Start pulling the clutch near the left handlebar. Some riders choose to pull the clutch and front brake simultaneously, but the choice is yours.
- Press and hold the start button. You will find this on the right handlebar. Maintain your hold on the clutch.
- The motorcycle should automatically catch and start.
- If the engine doesn’t turn over and start immediately, you can try using the throttle while pressing the start button. Make sure you are holding the clutch.
- Remember to never crank the engine for more than 10 seconds clips at a time. Otherwise, you’re wasting battery power.
- You can slowly start to release the clutch.
Now, you’re ready to ride!
Final Thoughts
Unlike carburetor motors, fuel injection systems rarely fail. To prevent the pump from failing, do some routine maintenance. Get into the habit of listening to the bike and know what a healthy running engine sounds like. That way, if something unusual happens, you will be able to tell whether or not something is wrong with the pump fuse by sound alone.
Modern fuel-injected motorcycles are easy to start. Follow the instructions in this article, and you will have no problem.
For more information about how to start, ride, and care for your motorcycle, check out my YouTube channel. Hit the subscribe button for notifications whenever there’s an update. -
Yamaha R1 vs R6: Which one is right for you?
When it comes to sport bikes, Yamaha has a reputation for producing some of the best in the market. Two of their most popular models, the R1 and R6, are often compared and debated among riders. Both bikes are powerful, sleek, and designed for high-performance riding, but there are some key differences that may make one a better fit for you than the other.
Engine and Performance
- The R1 is powered by a 998cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 200 horsepower and 82 lb-ft of torque. This engine is designed for high-performance riding and can propel the R1 from 0-60 mph in just over 2 seconds.
- The R6, on the other hand, is powered by a 599cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 120 horsepower and 43 lb-ft of torque. While still a powerful engine, the R6’s power output is more manageable for those new to sport riding.
- The R1’s engine is also equipped with Yamaha’s crossplane crankshaft technology, which gives it a unique and distinct character, and allows for smooth power delivery.
- The R6 also features advanced engine management system, which includes YCC-T, Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle, that allows the rider to experience a smooth and natural throttle response, making it easier to control.
- The R1 is geared more towards experienced riders who are looking for a high-performance bike that can handle the demands of track riding and fast-paced riding on the street. Its powerful engine and advanced features can be difficult to handle for those new to sport bikes.
- The R6, on the other hand, is more suited to those who are just starting out in sport riding or who prefer a more manageable power output. Its engine is designed to deliver a balance of performance and control, making it easier for riders to handle.
- Ultimately, the choice between the two engines will come down to the rider’s level of experience and their desired riding style. The R1’s engine is designed for experienced riders looking for a high-performance bike, while the R6’s engine is designed for those just starting out or who prefer a more manageable power output.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Engine Type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Displacement 998cc 599cc Bore x Stroke 78.0 x 52.2mm 67.0 x 42.5mm Compression Ratio 13.0 : 1 13.1 : 1 Maximum Power 200.0 HP @ 13,500 RPM 120.0 HP @ 14,500 RPM Maximum Torque 82.6 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM 43.0 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM Fuel System Fuel Injection Fuel Injection Lubrication Wet sump Wet sump Clutch Type Wet, multiple-disc Wet, multiple-disc Ignition TCI TCI Starting System Electric Electric Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Maximum Speed 186 mph 156 mph 0-60 mph 2.7 sec 3.4 sec Handling and Suspension
When it comes to handling, both the R1 and R6 are equipped with advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride. However, the R1’s suspension is slightly more advanced, with fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a link-type rear suspension that offers a wide range of adjustability. This allows experienced riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preferences and riding style.
One of the main differences between the R1 and R6 in terms of handling is the wheelbase and riding position. The R1 has a longer wheelbase and a more relaxed riding position. This makes it more stable at high speeds and allows for more control during straight-line riding. The longer wheelbase also helps to reduce the bike’s tendency to wheelie, which can be a concern for some riders.
The R6, on the other hand, has a shorter wheelbase and a more aggressive riding position. This makes it more agile in tight corners and better suited for sport riding. The shorter wheelbase allows the R6 to turn more quickly and with less effort, making it more responsive to rider inputs. The riding position also puts the rider in a more forward-leaning position, which can be more comfortable for some riders during long rides.
In summary, both the R1 and R6 have advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride, but the R1’s is slightly more advanced. The R1’s longer wheelbase and relaxed riding position make it more stable at high speeds, while the R6’s shorter wheelbase and aggressive riding position make it more agile in tight corners. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Front Suspension 43mm USD fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel 41mm fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Rear Suspension Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Front Brake Dual 320mm discs, 4-piston calipers Dual 310mm discs, 4-piston calipers Rear Brake 220mm disc, 2-piston caliper 220mm disc, 1-piston caliper Front Tire 120/70ZR17 120/70ZR17 Rear Tire 190/55ZR17 180/55ZR17 Rake 24.0° 24.0° Trail 4.0 in 3.5 in Wheelbase 55.1 in 54.3 in Seat Height 32.9 in 33.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Design and Features
When it comes to design, the R1 and R6 have different looks that appeal to different riders. The R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with sharp lines and aerodynamic features that give it a futuristic look. The R1 also has a more aerodynamic bodywork that helps to reduce wind resistance and improve stability at high speeds.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design. The R6’s design is more classic and timeless, which some riders prefer. It has a more understated look that does not shout for attention. The R6 design is focused on providing a smooth and aerodynamic riding experience.
When it comes to features, the R1 comes with a range of advanced features such as a quick-shifter, traction control, and a slipper clutch. These features allow riders to experience a more advanced level of riding and can help to improve performance and safety. The R1 also comes with a range of electronic rider aids, such as selectable power modes and launch control, that allows riders to customize the bike’s performance to their personal preferences and riding conditions.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more basic set of features. It comes with features such as ABS and a standard clutch. It’s more suited to riders who want a more traditional sport bike experience and prefer a more minimalist approach to features.
In summary, the R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with a range of advanced features that cater to experienced riders, while the R6 has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design, and a more basic set of features. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style. Some riders prefer the advanced features and modern design of the R1, while others prefer the more traditional look and basic features of the R6.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Dimensions (LxWxH) 80.9 in x 27.6 in x 45.3 in 80.9 in x 27.2 in x 43.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Fuel Capacity 4.5 gallons 4.5 gallons Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Color options Varies by model year Varies by model year Advance Features Traction control, quick-shifter, slipper clutch, ABS Traction control, quick-shifter, ABS Price and Value
When it comes to price, the R1 and R6 have different price points. The R1 is the more expensive of the two, with a starting price of around $16,000. This puts it in the higher end of the sport bike market. The R1’s higher price tag can be attributed to its advanced features and higher performance capabilities.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more affordable price point, with a starting price of around $12,000. This makes it more accessible to a wider range of riders, especially those on a budget. The R6’s more affordable price point does not mean that it’s any less of a bike, it’s still a great option for sport riding enthusiasts, and it’s still a great value for its price.
While the R1 may have more advanced features and higher performance, the R6 offers a great value for its price and is a great option for those who are looking for a sport bike that won’t break the bank. The R6 is a great choice for those who want to experience the thrill of sport riding without having to spend a lot of money.
In summary, the R1 is more expensive than the R6, and it has more advanced features and higher performance capabilities. However, the R6 offers great value for its price, and it’s a great option for those on a budget. Both the R1 and R6 are great sport bikes that cater to different riders, and the choice between the two will come down to personal preferences, riding style, and budget.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Starting Price $18,000 $12,000 Warranty 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) Insurance cost Varies by location and personal circumstances Varies by location and personal circumstances Maintenance cost Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required In conclusion, both the Yamaha R1 and R6 are excellent sport bikes, each with its own set of strengths and weaknesses. The R1 is geared towards experienced riders looking for high performance and advanced features, while the R6 is a great option for those just starting out or on a budget. Ultimately, the choice between the two will come down to your personal preferences and riding style.
