An underrated aspect of learning how to ride a motorcycle goes beyond turning and popping wheelies. No, it’s something seemingly much more simple than that. Do you shift? Sure, shifting gears should be easy, because it’s a basic function; but shifting gear does have a layer of complexity that beginning cyclists could have problems mastering right away.
Here’s everything you need to know about shifting gears on a motorcycle.
Motorcycle Gears Basics
The three basic controls are ones that you might already know—the throttle, the clutch, and the gear selector. You use the throttle to rev the engine, the clutch to engage and disengage the brakes (transmission), and to select gears. For instance, if you pull the left hand clutch towards you, the engine revs without ever moving the bike.
The gear pattern can be clicked through by using the gear selector lever and is moved by your left foot. Most bikes have the following gears, starting with the lowest first:
• First gear
• Neutral
• Second gear
• Third gear
• Fourth gear
• Fifth gear
• Sixth gear (depending on the bike)
As you can see, shifting fears is sequential. Up or down, neutral (N) is always put between 1st and 2nd gear.
Technique For Motorcycle Shifting
It’s best to learn the proper technique required to maneuver through shifting gears before learning how to do anything else.
Steps of the proper shifting technique:
- Disengage the clutch. Use your left hand to pull it towards you.
- Select the correct gear by using your left food on the shifting lever.
- Slightly rev the engine if shifting up.
- Gradually release the clutch. Don’t pop it.
- Feather the throttle while releasing the clutch to accelerate smoothly.
- Continue revving if you which to switch to another gear in succession. Otherwise, find a nice cruising speed to maintain.
Shifting With Sound and Feel
Have you ever heard wailing motorcycle engines on the road? You’ve probably thought to yourself, “Is that rider even shifting?” That’s you using the basic rule of sound. In basic terms, if an engine starts to scream, you shift to an upper gear. If the engine starts to grumble, then shift the engine lower.
There a many methods to help you do this properly. Beginners should only focus on the simplest method. Afterwards, you can experiment.
Start off by riding in first gear. Try to sense to point when you need to switch to second gear. This means the engine isn’t yet screaming, but you are feeling the natural inclination to gain more speed. The clutch will disengage easily.
Should the engine start to scream, this means you’ve hit the red line, otherwise known as the built-in limiter. The limiter is placed in the engine to ensure the bike doesn’t overextend itself and burn up.
If you shift a gear up too soon, the bike could stall or choke. Restart the bike. Try again. Keep working through the gears until you can hear and feel when it is time to gear up.
Shifting Smoothly
You will notice that there’s no mathematical equation to figure out the “when” behind shifting. Every bike has a unique behavior that depends on how you handle it. For instance, if the bike jerks when you release the clutch, you’re being too abrupt. If the bike tends to lurch during shifts, you’re applying too much throttle. If the motorcycle’s speed dips during shifting, you need to rev the engine more between gear changes. Pay attention to the clutch, throttle, and gear selector, because these all interact and are dependent on one another.
Mechanics of Movement
Let’s back-up for a moment. Now that you have this idea in your mind that you need to listen and feel and understand with muscle memory what to do when shifting, it’s time to talk about what is happening inside the bike while you’re doing the actions.
The clutch is the first thing you touch when it’s time to shift gears, unless you have an automatic motorcycle or a quick shift. Once the clutch is engaged, meaning the lever is out and power is send to the rear tie, little springs press on the clutch plate that connect the primary drive to the part that rotates from the pistons going up and down.
When you pull the lever, the plate separates and releases the connection to the motor. In this moment, you can change gears.
That’s when you take your foot and move the gear selector. On the gear selector is a piece called a collar that has “dogs.” This dogs mesh together with the fork in the same way you interlace your fingers. When you move your foot up and down on the selector, the dogs and fork connect to help change the gear. Then, you find the right gear and accelerate.
Keep this in mind while reading the next two sections about upshifting and downshifting.
Upshifting
Most of this article has been devoted to upshifting. Upshifting is easier than downshifting, because you are accelerating. This means that if you do any of the steps of shifting a little too quick, there’s less of an impact. Of course, this could result in a sudden jolt of power to the rear wheel, causing the front tire to come off the ground.
(Note: You should only practice stunts in a controlled environment and when you have gained enough experience.)
Downshifting
On the opposite end of upshifting is downshifting, which tends to go a little less smoothly. If you release the clutch too quickly while downshifting, the sudden downward change can cause the gear to slow down the rear tire, compressing the front end, and causing a lack of traction in the back end. You need to be able to control the release of the clutch.
Be careful when rounding corners and decreasing your gears for this reason. You don’t want to suddenly lose traction right when you need more grip on the asphalt. That could cause the bike to skid to the side.
False Neutral
When downshifting, you could accidentally hit a false neutral. This can happen anywhere there shouldn’t be a neutral, including between 3rd and 4th or 4th and 5th and so on. This could happen if the dogs don’t connect with the fork when selecting gears. There is power loss to the rear wheel.
If you end up in a false neutral, pull on the clutch, and put the bike into a higher gear. You can prevent excessive damage to the bike. Be quick and make sure you move into the correct once you get out of false neutral.
With that, you should be able to master the basics of shifting. Practice the timing of the clutch release and working with the gear selector for a bit. You will soon be able to shift between gears like someone who has been riding for many years.
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How Often Do I Need To Change Motorcycle Engine Oil?
Changing engine oil is essential to maintaining the life of your beloved motorcycle. If you don’t consistently check the oil level and change the oil when it gets old or dirty, the lifespan of the motor is severely shortened.
Let’s get started.How Often You Need To Change Motorcycle Oil
Most riders will ask the question, “How often do I need to change the motorcycle engine oil?” at least once. The answer depends on the make/model of your bike (we’ll be discussed a Yamaha YZF-R6), the type of oil you used, and how often you ride.
If you used a mineral-based engine oil (the simplest, cheapest kind), then you should change the engine every 2,000 miles if you’re riding frequently. If you don’t ride regularly, you can change your oil at least twice a year.
When using a semi-synthetic engine oil, change the oil once every 5,000-6,000 miles.
Lastly, if you use a fully-synthetic engine oil, change the oil after 7,000-10,000 miles.
Semi- and fully-synthetic motor oils are more expensive than mineral-based engine oil, but the plus side is that they last much longer. The only time when you might have to change before the recommended mileage, regardless of the motor oil type, is if you are riding your bike every single day or you commute a great distance frequently.Yamaha YZF-R6 Oil Change Instructions
You can find the following information in the owner’s manual of your Yamaha YZF-R6. If you don’t have this specific Yamaha model, it’s recommended you find the specific instructions for your make and model, as the steps could be different.
- Checking the engine oil level:
- Put the motorcycle on a level surface and hold it in an upright position, as straight as possible. Slight tilts could result in a false read.
- Start the engine. Let the oil warm up for several minutes.
- Turn the motorcycle off again.
- Wait for the oil to settle. This may take a few minutes.
- Remove the engine oil dipstick. Wipe it clean with a cloth then insert the stick back into the fuel reservoir. Take a moment to look at the maximum and minimum oil level lines before testing if you’re not familiar with it. Don’t screw the stick in. Remove it again to get your reading.
- If the engine oil level is at or below the minimum level, remove the engine filler cap and add a sufficient amount of oil to get the level to the recommended spot.
- Insert then tighten the engine oil dipstick. Afterwards, install and tighten the oil filler cap.
During this stage of your oil check, you might find that you need to change the oil completely.
How To Tell If You Need An Oil Change
The normal color of oil is transparent, brownish, maybe even slightly black. When oil is “clean,” it works best for protecting and keeping the engine clean.
Now, “dirty” oil is when the water consistency is lost. It feels slightly gritty when rubbed between your fingers. The color will be darker, if not completely black, and it will have lost it’s transparency.
You might also notice that the engine is making bizarre noises when the oil is dirty. All these signs point to needing an oil change.
How to change engine oil on a Yamaha YZF-R6:
- Put the motorcycle on a level surface.
- Removing the cowling.
- Start the engine for several minutes. Once warmed, turn the bike off.
- Place an oil pan under the engine to collect used oil.
- Remove the engine oil filler cap, the engine oil drain bolt, and lastly the gasket to drain the oil from the crankcase.
- Once the oil is drained completely, replace the gasket and bolt, fill the tank to the recommended level, and then replace the engine oil filler cap.
When To Change The Oil Filter
Change the filter every time you change the oil or once every 2,000 to 3,000 miles if you’re using synthetic motor oil. You don’t want to ride around with a dirty, old oil filter because it traps any dirt, dust, debris, metal, and sludge that would otherwise harm your engine.
Not a frequent rider? Again, change your oil at least twice a year and pair that with a filter change.Conclusion
To wrap everything up, frequent riders will need to change their oil more often than those who ride once in a while. The quality of the motor oil changes the mileage for oil changes, and synthetic oils will have the longest life. Make sure to check the oil level and consistency often so you can protect the engine and preserve the life of your ride.
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Viking Cycle Bloodaxe Leather Motorcycle Jacket Review
When it comes to motorcycle jackets, you want something that balances the need to look like you own the road and enough protection to keep you from becoming part of the road. Viking Cycle, a brand based out of California, has been turning heads with their attention to detail and security in their full range of motorcycle clothing for men and women. The best part is the price tag.
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Overview of the Bloodaxe Motorcycle Jacket
Out of the box, the Bloodaxe looks awesome and feels awesome. When the jacket first goes on, you’ll notice it’s a bit stiff—but it does loosen up with some wear, as good leather should. The zippers have solid construction, open and close smoothly, and lay well when you’re riding.
The biggest advantage of the Viking Cycle Bloodaxe isn’t the awesome name but the amount of storage. You won’t believe the amount of storage space you have with this jacket. There’s so much, it’s almost ridiculous.
There is a headphone wire system that you can feed into the collar of the jacket, earphone pockets, a media player pocket, cellphone pocket with 3 second access, 2 knife and pen pockets, an eyeglass pocket, a pocket designed to find a 10-inch tablet, extendable keyholder, and another pocket that can fit travel documents and your wallet. The pockets have a unique “no bulge” design, so even if you somehow managed to stuff every single compartment this jacket has, it will still look flat and sleek and not like a bubble jacket. Overall, it sits nice on the body and doesn’t feel stifling.
The sizing does run a little small. Someone around 5 foot, 10 inches, 180 pounds will fall into the M-L range, depending on how much you want to bundle up. If you take out the thermal lining or don’t want to wear a lot of clothing underneath, you might want to size down to prevent the jacket from floating on you.
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Specifications
(listed adapted from vikingcycle.com)
- Construction – Drum-dyed soft genuine cowhide leather (milled buffalo), padded shoulders, and Viking cycle level 1 removable “armor” on elbows and spine; two intake vents on the top of the shoulders and exhaust vents in the back
- External Storage – 2 zippered chest pockets, 2 zippered side pockets, and a single sleeve pocket
- Internal Storage – 2 secured zippered pockets and a secret compartment
- Adjustability – waist snaps and sleeve zippers
- Visibility – High viz stripes located on the back and shoulders
Pros
- Sag and wrinkle resistant
- Wind and water resistant
- Abrasion resistant
- A ton of hidden pockets on the internal side of the jacket
- CE marked armor in the back and shoulders – comfortable and stays in place while riding around
- Budget-friendly cost without a lack of quality and safety
- Stylish design
Cons
- Can be hot – the jacket has a thermal lining and is heavy, so it can be oppressive in the summertime even with the vents open. For that reason, it might not be ideal for moving in slower paced traffic;
- CE armor level could be higher.
Warranty Info
Viking Cycle offers a 1 year manufacturer’s warranty on all of their products. This means that any defects or imperfections that you find are covered. The warranty does not cover wear and tear or damages caused from improper care.
This might raise some questions about durability, since some production errors or faults can take a few days or weeks to appear.
If you start to notice something odd going on with the jacket that you didn’t cause, you can contact Viking Cycle at info@vikingcycle.com with the order number and a photo of the defect to get an exchange or refund.
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Conclusion
Honestly, for the quality of the jacket, you would expect to pay more for it than you do. The name might be a bit for metal than what this motorcycle jacket offers, but the sleekness of the design, paired with the sound construction and unheard of amount of storage makes it a clear winner. If you’re looking for a balance of style and safety without breaking your bank, I recommend the Viking Bloodaxe motorcycle jacket for your wardrobe.
Looking for more details about choosing motorcycle jackets and other riding gear? Then check out and subscribe to my YouTube channel today!
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Viking Moto Motorcycle Backpack Review
Viking Moto Motorcycle Backpack Review
Let’s all agree that the biggest problem with our bikes being daily transportation is the lack of hauling capacity.
So, just as in our scholastic days, backpacks to the rescue! But not just any backpack will do. We’re out in the elements, we’re hauling heavier stuff than a few books, and of course, we don’t want to look like a vagabond. That’s where awesome designs like the Viking Bag’s Motorcycle Backpack shine.
This isn’t your high school backpack, oh no. This Cordura backpack features a modern classic look with leather trim and an understated aesthetic that will match your jacket and your bike, no matter what type of bike you like to ride.
Let’s take a closer look at this awesome bag, and how it can make your daily rides so much cooler.
Shot and Edited by Shaun Maddox
https://shaunmaddox.com/
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Construction
As I said, this backpack is made of Cordura, a modern marvel of material sciences that fits comfortably on your body, while not being a floppy, frail backpack. With dimensions of 18.5”x12.5”x5”, you can carry groceries, personal items, or personal items with ease and comfort no other bag can offer.
Need more organization, or to haul some electronics with you? Well, Viking’s completely onboard with 21st-century life, including a laptop sleeve and stretchy, sewn in pockets for organizing your styluses, connection cords, your phone, and anything else delicate and vital you may need to carry.
That’s not even the coolest thing this bag can do. We all know how important our helmet is for safety, but when we get off our bike, it becomes a cumbersome nuisance to carry around or somehow safely secure to our bike. With this Viking bag, that’s not an issue, thanks to the stretchy helmet lining which can hold pretty much any helmet of any size no problem.
Gone are any excuses, whatsoever, to forego your helmet. You know who you are!
The Feel
I took one of these out for a day ride, that is about 6 hours round trip, to go shopping in another area (I usually wouldn’t, but it’s a good field test for gear like this). By the time I reached my destination, I almost forgot this bag was even attached to me, and that was with a heavy laptop and backup battery in my bag.
I did, however, notice that as I took the bag off when going into a restaurant, that my shirt was a bit damp, as I’d sweat from where it blocked air flow to an extent. However, having had other bags leave the back of my shirt completely soaked through, I’d call this a considerable improvement in that department. Given this bag is weatherized, it kind of can’t have the airflow of something mesh, and I’d rather sweat a tiny bit while having my stuff protected from the elements.
What really caught my attention was the lack of soreness or discomfort across my shoulders, neck and upper back. I’m a broad-shouldered fellow, which means most backpacks with any weight, tend to tug on muscles and leave me sore or even numb – the broad design of the straps both across the shoulders and waist, didn’t cause that problem at all.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- This is an attractive bag that doesn’t scream “hobo” or “kid”, with a professional yet casual aesthetic that matches any jacket well enough.
- It’s weatherized, and will protect everything with gusto.
- It’s very comfortable, and the strap designs don’t cause soreness, discomfort or circulation problems.
- I can carry my electronics in an organized fashion – this modern thinking is lost on a lot of biking gear companies.
- The helmet lining does the biking community two great services by making our helmets no longer a nuisance, and eliminating any excuses for anyone to foolishly leave their helmets behind.
Cons
- Being weatherized, you will sweat a little bit, it can’t be helped.
- While attractive, the black may not be everyone’s taste.
- I know a few hefty guys who might find the fit of this bag, adjustable as it is, to be a bit precarious.
ADDITIONAL DETAILS
- Heavy duty Cardura Construction.
- Reflective piping for additional night time visibility.
- Built in helmet hood.
- Fits most 15″ laptops in padded compartment.
- Detailed organizer for your keys, wallet and other small items.
- Protective eyewear pocket.
- Duraflex® buckles throughout for added strength.
- Audio Ready.
- Height and width adjustable sternum strap.
- Aerodynamic molded body.
Conclusion
I like this bag. It’s not perfect, and I can see some room for improvement in variety of color schemes as well as a bit more adjustability in the straps for bigger people. I’d also like to see another model that’s stretchier, for if I have more stuff to haul back.
Nonetheless, this is a nice bag, and if you ride your bike for daily things like I do in decent weather, you owe it to yourself to give a bag like this a try!
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