An underrated aspect of learning how to ride a motorcycle goes beyond turning and popping wheelies. No, it’s something seemingly much more simple than that. Do you shift? Sure, shifting gears should be easy, because it’s a basic function; but shifting gear does have a layer of complexity that beginning cyclists could have problems mastering right away.
Here’s everything you need to know about shifting gears on a motorcycle.
Motorcycle Gears Basics
The three basic controls are ones that you might already know—the throttle, the clutch, and the gear selector. You use the throttle to rev the engine, the clutch to engage and disengage the brakes (transmission), and to select gears. For instance, if you pull the left hand clutch towards you, the engine revs without ever moving the bike.
The gear pattern can be clicked through by using the gear selector lever and is moved by your left foot. Most bikes have the following gears, starting with the lowest first:
• First gear
• Neutral
• Second gear
• Third gear
• Fourth gear
• Fifth gear
• Sixth gear (depending on the bike)
As you can see, shifting fears is sequential. Up or down, neutral (N) is always put between 1st and 2nd gear.
Technique For Motorcycle Shifting
It’s best to learn the proper technique required to maneuver through shifting gears before learning how to do anything else.
Steps of the proper shifting technique:
- Disengage the clutch. Use your left hand to pull it towards you.
- Select the correct gear by using your left food on the shifting lever.
- Slightly rev the engine if shifting up.
- Gradually release the clutch. Don’t pop it.
- Feather the throttle while releasing the clutch to accelerate smoothly.
- Continue revving if you which to switch to another gear in succession. Otherwise, find a nice cruising speed to maintain.
Shifting With Sound and Feel
Have you ever heard wailing motorcycle engines on the road? You’ve probably thought to yourself, “Is that rider even shifting?” That’s you using the basic rule of sound. In basic terms, if an engine starts to scream, you shift to an upper gear. If the engine starts to grumble, then shift the engine lower.
There a many methods to help you do this properly. Beginners should only focus on the simplest method. Afterwards, you can experiment.
Start off by riding in first gear. Try to sense to point when you need to switch to second gear. This means the engine isn’t yet screaming, but you are feeling the natural inclination to gain more speed. The clutch will disengage easily.
Should the engine start to scream, this means you’ve hit the red line, otherwise known as the built-in limiter. The limiter is placed in the engine to ensure the bike doesn’t overextend itself and burn up.
If you shift a gear up too soon, the bike could stall or choke. Restart the bike. Try again. Keep working through the gears until you can hear and feel when it is time to gear up.
Shifting Smoothly
You will notice that there’s no mathematical equation to figure out the “when” behind shifting. Every bike has a unique behavior that depends on how you handle it. For instance, if the bike jerks when you release the clutch, you’re being too abrupt. If the bike tends to lurch during shifts, you’re applying too much throttle. If the motorcycle’s speed dips during shifting, you need to rev the engine more between gear changes. Pay attention to the clutch, throttle, and gear selector, because these all interact and are dependent on one another.
Mechanics of Movement
Let’s back-up for a moment. Now that you have this idea in your mind that you need to listen and feel and understand with muscle memory what to do when shifting, it’s time to talk about what is happening inside the bike while you’re doing the actions.
The clutch is the first thing you touch when it’s time to shift gears, unless you have an automatic motorcycle or a quick shift. Once the clutch is engaged, meaning the lever is out and power is send to the rear tie, little springs press on the clutch plate that connect the primary drive to the part that rotates from the pistons going up and down.
When you pull the lever, the plate separates and releases the connection to the motor. In this moment, you can change gears.
That’s when you take your foot and move the gear selector. On the gear selector is a piece called a collar that has “dogs.” This dogs mesh together with the fork in the same way you interlace your fingers. When you move your foot up and down on the selector, the dogs and fork connect to help change the gear. Then, you find the right gear and accelerate.
Keep this in mind while reading the next two sections about upshifting and downshifting.
Upshifting
Most of this article has been devoted to upshifting. Upshifting is easier than downshifting, because you are accelerating. This means that if you do any of the steps of shifting a little too quick, there’s less of an impact. Of course, this could result in a sudden jolt of power to the rear wheel, causing the front tire to come off the ground.
(Note: You should only practice stunts in a controlled environment and when you have gained enough experience.)
Downshifting
On the opposite end of upshifting is downshifting, which tends to go a little less smoothly. If you release the clutch too quickly while downshifting, the sudden downward change can cause the gear to slow down the rear tire, compressing the front end, and causing a lack of traction in the back end. You need to be able to control the release of the clutch.
Be careful when rounding corners and decreasing your gears for this reason. You don’t want to suddenly lose traction right when you need more grip on the asphalt. That could cause the bike to skid to the side.
False Neutral
When downshifting, you could accidentally hit a false neutral. This can happen anywhere there shouldn’t be a neutral, including between 3rd and 4th or 4th and 5th and so on. This could happen if the dogs don’t connect with the fork when selecting gears. There is power loss to the rear wheel.
If you end up in a false neutral, pull on the clutch, and put the bike into a higher gear. You can prevent excessive damage to the bike. Be quick and make sure you move into the correct once you get out of false neutral.
With that, you should be able to master the basics of shifting. Practice the timing of the clutch release and working with the gear selector for a bit. You will soon be able to shift between gears like someone who has been riding for many years.
Liked this article and want more beginner motorcycle tips? Check out my YouTube channel and don’t forget to hit that subscribe button.
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What Every Rider Should Know About Road Rash
Road rash isn’t a punchline to a joke about bad motorcycle handling or old video game. Road rash, also called “friction burn,” is a serious injury. The severity of the wound is measured by degrees, the same as you would a chemical or fire burn. Since the skin is the largest organ of our bodies, getting road rash opens you up to other vulnerabilities, such as infection. But there is more to understand about road rash than these points.
Let’s look at this serious injury that can happen to anyone and learn how to classify and treat various types of road rash.
The Different Types of Road Rash
Not every bout of road rash is created equal. There are three main types of road rash:
- Avulsion – the skin is scraped away. Sometimes fat, muscle, and even bone will be exposed.
- Compression – where the body is caught between two objects, such as the motorcycle and the road. This results in bruising, broken bones, and damaged muscle.
- Open wound – usually require stitches. Open wound road rash might even require skin grafting.
Aside from the 3 different types, there are 3 degrees of damage:
- First degree – the first layer of the skin is red. Does not require medical treatment and will heal well enough on its own.
- Second degree – the first layer of skin, known as the epidermis, is broken. There can be bleeding and debris stuck in the wound. Usually requires little medical treatment and can heal with no scarring or lasting damage.
- Third degree – skin has been peeled away, leaving tissue, fat and sometimes bone exposed. Victims often need skin grafting.
The degrees of the crash depends on factors such as the force of the impact with the ground, the type of surface where the crash takes place, and whether safety gear was equipped.
Road rash will often occur in places that come in contact with the abrasive surface, either when attempting to catch oneself or when rolling or getting dragged. The outside of the legs, knees, palms, thighs, shoulders, and face are usually where road rash occurs.
Complications of Road Rash
Seek medical treatment immediately if you experience any of the following with road rash:
- Severe pain
- Inability to move affected region
- Cuts on the face that are larger than a ¼ inch
- Cuts on the body that are larger than a ½ inch
- Bleeding doesn’t stop
- Gaping wound remains opened with you relax the body
- Fat is visible in the exposed tissues
- Road rash is paired with other injuries, including possible concussion or broken bones.
Any open wound should be treated with antibiotics within six hours. Otherwise, you are at risk of infection.
Treatment and Recovery From Road Rash
Depending on the severity of the road rash, you can oftentimes treat it yourself. In that event, do the following:
- Stop any bleeding.
- Wash your hands with soap and water.
- Rinse the wound thoroughly.
- Wash the wound with soap, water, and then use some witch hazel.
- Apply a topical antibiotic.
- Bandage the wound.
- Change the dressing.
Note: During the recovery, the skin will undergo healing from the deepest layers to the top. It might get scabs. Do not pick the scabs. Instead, continue changing the bandages and applying topical antibiotics. Once the oozing stops, you can use petroleum jelly to keep the skin supple and lessen the scarring.
If you end up going to the doctor because of a deep wound, the medical professional might recommend using ibuprofen, a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), acetaminophen, or naproxen to deal with the pain.
Remember that because the skin has been opened by abrasion, you could be at risk for infection. Consider getting a tetanus shot. Tetanus boosters last 10 years, so if you had an injury where the epidermis or dermis of the skin has been injured, tetanus bacteria can enter the wound. At any time symptoms of infection begin, such as redness, swelling, warm or hot skin around the injury, tenderness, pain, or bloody ooze or yellowish pus, you could have an infection. Make sure to get to a doctor immediately.
Hopefully, you should now have an understanding of road rash and how serious it can be. Don’t ignore severe injuries after a fall. Drive safe and stay safe, so you can keep riding!
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The Ultimate List Of Motovloggers On YouTube
What Is A Motovlog?
Simply put, motovlogging is when you attach a camera to yourself or your motorcycle and record your ride. Wikipedia defines it as:
A motovlog is a type of video log recorded by a person while riding a motorcycle. The word is a neologism and portmanteau derived from “motorcycle”, “video” and “log”. A rider who creates video blogs known as a moto blogger, and the action of making motovlogs is called motovlogging. Most motovloggers upload their videos on YouTube, and the network of motovloggers here is known as the motovloggers community.
Who Was The First MotoVlogger?
While it’s specifically documented when the first motovlog was created, the earliest motovlogging channels on Youtube is M13 which started in 2006.
Mordeth13
Are you looking for motovloggers to follow?
Since then the motovolgging community has exploded. Each rider has a different style of riding, a different sense of humor, and a different style of teaching.
While I’m positive this isn’t a complete list, I’m sure you’ll find a channel here that will peak your interest. Make sure you check back frequently because I’ll be adding to this list.
If you’re a motovlogger that would like to added to this list simply follow me on YouTube and fill out my contact form and I’ll get you added!
Check Out These Articles:
Shout Out To PhatboyR6 and No.Bumpers for helping me come up with this collection of motovloggers. So here they are in no particular order!
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Sena 3s Bluetooth Headset: Quick Review | SMH3
The Sena 3S Bluetooth Headset can best be described as simple but good, a tiny, light headset that weighs about the same as a few coins. Not only is it light, but it is also very easy to use with just two buttons used to control the headset. The headset is available in two versions – the 3S-B with a boom mic or the 3S-W with a Lilliputian mic.
The Sena 3S Motorcycle Bluetooth Headset
The Sena 3S Bluetooth Headset is the next generation of the Nexx SXCOM, the first self-contained motorcycle system which was a joint venture of Sena and Nexx. The headset was introduced at the 2014 AIMExpo Show in Orlando, Florida. The 3S is smaller and lighter than the SX-COM, containing a pair of speakers and a microphone. It is self-contained and uses a Bluetooth stereo headset and intercom. For a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the 3S has everything you need and nothing you don’t.
Using the Sena 3S
Early motorcycle headsets were extremely difficult to use. Some were so complicated, you needed to tape instructions to the gas tank to remember what sequence of buttons to press. They had very limited range and it was sometimes impossible to talk to passengers through the headsets. Included with the headset is a four-page “Quick Start” booklet or you can download a .pdf form of the leaflet from Sena here. The headset powers up using a quick press of the + and – buttons. Even better, these two buttons control the entire system, whether you want to change the volume, use your phone or pair a GPS or MP3.
SMH3 Sound Quality
The speakers on the Sena 3S are a little bulky, but not any worse than other types of motorcycle headsets. The sound is good and can be heard easily over the sound of the bike. The microphones are sensitive so the mouthpiece does not need to be pressed to your mouth like other systems. In fact, if the mic is too close and the volume to high, the speakers are overwhelmed. Music quality is good as well and you can distinguish bass sounds easily. For a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the sound is outstanding, however.
Should I Choose the Boom or Wired Version?
Whether to choose the boom or wired version of the 3S depends on several factors. The boom version is designed for open-face helmets due to the location of the operating buttons. The + and – buttons are located along the top end of the microphone and, although you can reach under the face shield to press them, this can be difficult. If you are also wearing thick gloves or have a large face shield, accessing the buttons on the boom mic is not easy. However, the wired version doesn’t work as well in full-face helmets, especially if there is a large chin vent. In those cases, wind noise can affect microphone performance.
Sena 3S Features
- Two-buttons on the control pad on the mic or the external mount control all features.
- Bluetooth intercom up to 200 meters (220 yards) in open terrain.
- Bluetooth pairing for mobile phones (can connect dual mobile phones).
- Voice prompts.
- Bluetooth stereo headset with A2DP.
- Bluetooth music playback control by AVRCP: play, pause, track forward and track back.
- Integrated audio booster.
- Up to 8 hours talk time, 7 days stand-by time.
- Individual volume control for each audio source.
- Firmware upgradeable.
Two-year warranty.
In the Box
- Bluetooth Built-in Speaker-microphone Unit
- USB Power & Data Cable (Micro USB Type)
- Microphone Sponges
- Male Velcro Pads for Speakers
- Female Velcro Pads for Speakers
Sena 3S Specifications
- Talk time: 8 hours.
- Stand-by time: 7 days.
- Working distance (intercom): up to 200 meters (220 yards) in open terrain.
- Operating temperature: -10˚C ~ 55˚C (14°F ~ 131°F).
- Dimensions:
- Speaker: 39.9 mm x 39.9 mm x 11.3 mm ( 1.6 in x 1.6 in x 0.4 in )
- Boom microphone length: 180.0 mm ( 7.1 in )
- Weight:
Headset: 59 g ( 2.08 oz. )
Bluetooth:- Profile: Headset Profile, Hands-Free Profile (HFP), Advanced Audio Distribution Profile (A2DP), Audio Video. Remote Control Profile (AVRCP).
- Bluetooth 3.0
- Audio:
- Built-in SBC Codec
- Noise cancellation
- Wind noise reduction
- Wide volume control
- Sample rate: 48kHz (DAC)
- Battery:
- Charging time: 2.5 hours
- Type: Lithium polymer battery
Sena Downloads
As a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the Sena 3S appeals to several types of riders. It is perfect for those who want to try a Bluetooth intercom set or those who need an easy-to-use system that isn’t expensive. To learn more about the Sena 3S Motorcycle Bluetooth headset and other accessories for your bike, visit check out my YouTube channel.
