One of the most heartbreaking situations any car or motorcycle lover will experience is when you have beautiful riding or driving weather, are excited to hit the road, and the engine doesn’t turnover. The reason? Low battery power.
If you have a nifty gadget called a Battery Tender®, you can recharge the battery and bring it back to life in no time. A Battery Tender® is a friendlier alternative to traditional battery charges because of the technology housed within the device that is designed to prolong battery life.
Before you decide to buy a Battery Tender®/Maintainer, though, let’s talk about what they are, what battery maintainters do, and why you should have a maintenance charger for your motorcycle.
What Is A Battery Tender®?
Also known as “float chargers” or “maintenance chargers,” Battery Tender® were first created by the U.S. company Deltran in 1965. What separates battery tenders from plain ol’ chargers is that these devices provide a constant voltage supply but also are controlled by processors. In other words, they are able to refrain from charging faulty batteries, use spark-free technology, and have green and red indicators that help you understand what’s happening in just a glimpse.
A Battery Tender® is the opposite of a trickle charger, an unsophisticated, less expensive option. Though the purpose is similar, a trickle charger doesn’t have microprocessor technology that prevents it from damaging the battery if you leave it charging for an extended period of time. Furthermore, you can use a battery tender when you plan on storing your motorcycle for several weeks on end, like over winter.
Keep in mind that a Battery Tender® is not able to jump-start a long-dead battery. When this happens, you need a trickle charger.
For this reason, you can think of a Battery Tender® as a trickle charge with a brain—the exact words of the original manufacturer, Deltran. Of course, there is more than one brand of Battery Tender® available on the market.
For example, the DieHard Battery Charger/Maintainer is similar to a Battery Tender that employs things like Float Mode Monitoring to charge more than just motorcycles. Whichever model you choose, just make sure they have features like auto-adjust amperage to help maintain the charge, easy-to-read indicator lights, and float mode monitoring.
Using A Battery Tender®
Operating a Battery Tender® is easy. To use a one of these devices, you just plug it into any standard AC outlet and use it to transfer power to the 12-volt battery in your motorcycle.
When preparing to use the battery tender, keep the AC and DC cords away from the vehicle. Keep the charger off until you have everything plugged in.
Depending on the motorcycle, the connections might differ, so refer to your owner manual. Once you have the battery tender connected to the correct posts on the battery, you can switch it on.
You should see indicator lights turn on, such as:
• Flashing red light – AC power and microprocessor is functioning properly. However, if the flashing continues, the voltage might be too low. Take a look to make sure the alligator clips are attached properly.
• Steady red light – The clamps are properly place and power is being transferred to your battery. The light will remain red until the battery is fully charged.
• Flashing green light – A flashing green light is often paired with a red light. This means the battery is about 80% charged and can be used.
• Steady green light – The charge is complete. You can keep the battery tender attached to the battery to help maintain the life of the battery if it will be sitting for an extended period of time.
Quick note: If your battery has less than 3 volts, the battery tender won’t start. The battery should produce at least 3 volts. On the same note, if you have a standard 12 volt battery that is defunct and is producing less than 9 volts, the battery tender won’t work properly.
Takeaway
Trickle chargers bring dead batteries back to life while battery tenders prevent batteries from losing power during periods of inactivity. Whether you use your bike every other day or less frequently, a battery tender will preserve the life of the battery to ensure your motorcycle is ready to ride whenever you need to hit the road. The straightforward usage makes it a wonderful investment for every motorcycle enthusiast.
Now that you’ve done you’re reading, it’s time to check out the motorcycle videos on my YouTube channel. Don’t forget to subscribe and receive notifications so you never miss an update!
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Sena 3s Bluetooth Headset: Quick Review | SMH3
The Sena 3S Bluetooth Headset can best be described as simple but good, a tiny, light headset that weighs about the same as a few coins. Not only is it light, but it is also very easy to use with just two buttons used to control the headset. The headset is available in two versions – the 3S-B with a boom mic or the 3S-W with a Lilliputian mic.
The Sena 3S Motorcycle Bluetooth Headset
The Sena 3S Bluetooth Headset is the next generation of the Nexx SXCOM, the first self-contained motorcycle system which was a joint venture of Sena and Nexx. The headset was introduced at the 2014 AIMExpo Show in Orlando, Florida. The 3S is smaller and lighter than the SX-COM, containing a pair of speakers and a microphone. It is self-contained and uses a Bluetooth stereo headset and intercom. For a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the 3S has everything you need and nothing you don’t.
Using the Sena 3S
Early motorcycle headsets were extremely difficult to use. Some were so complicated, you needed to tape instructions to the gas tank to remember what sequence of buttons to press. They had very limited range and it was sometimes impossible to talk to passengers through the headsets. Included with the headset is a four-page “Quick Start” booklet or you can download a .pdf form of the leaflet from Sena here. The headset powers up using a quick press of the + and – buttons. Even better, these two buttons control the entire system, whether you want to change the volume, use your phone or pair a GPS or MP3.
SMH3 Sound Quality
The speakers on the Sena 3S are a little bulky, but not any worse than other types of motorcycle headsets. The sound is good and can be heard easily over the sound of the bike. The microphones are sensitive so the mouthpiece does not need to be pressed to your mouth like other systems. In fact, if the mic is too close and the volume to high, the speakers are overwhelmed. Music quality is good as well and you can distinguish bass sounds easily. For a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the sound is outstanding, however.
Should I Choose the Boom or Wired Version?
Whether to choose the boom or wired version of the 3S depends on several factors. The boom version is designed for open-face helmets due to the location of the operating buttons. The + and – buttons are located along the top end of the microphone and, although you can reach under the face shield to press them, this can be difficult. If you are also wearing thick gloves or have a large face shield, accessing the buttons on the boom mic is not easy. However, the wired version doesn’t work as well in full-face helmets, especially if there is a large chin vent. In those cases, wind noise can affect microphone performance.
Sena 3S Features
- Two-buttons on the control pad on the mic or the external mount control all features.
- Bluetooth intercom up to 200 meters (220 yards) in open terrain.
- Bluetooth pairing for mobile phones (can connect dual mobile phones).
- Voice prompts.
- Bluetooth stereo headset with A2DP.
- Bluetooth music playback control by AVRCP: play, pause, track forward and track back.
- Integrated audio booster.
- Up to 8 hours talk time, 7 days stand-by time.
- Individual volume control for each audio source.
- Firmware upgradeable.
Two-year warranty.
In the Box
- Bluetooth Built-in Speaker-microphone Unit
- USB Power & Data Cable (Micro USB Type)
- Microphone Sponges
- Male Velcro Pads for Speakers
- Female Velcro Pads for Speakers
Sena 3S Specifications
- Talk time: 8 hours.
- Stand-by time: 7 days.
- Working distance (intercom): up to 200 meters (220 yards) in open terrain.
- Operating temperature: -10˚C ~ 55˚C (14°F ~ 131°F).
- Dimensions:
- Speaker: 39.9 mm x 39.9 mm x 11.3 mm ( 1.6 in x 1.6 in x 0.4 in )
- Boom microphone length: 180.0 mm ( 7.1 in )
- Weight:
Headset: 59 g ( 2.08 oz. )
Bluetooth:- Profile: Headset Profile, Hands-Free Profile (HFP), Advanced Audio Distribution Profile (A2DP), Audio Video. Remote Control Profile (AVRCP).
- Bluetooth 3.0
- Audio:
- Built-in SBC Codec
- Noise cancellation
- Wind noise reduction
- Wide volume control
- Sample rate: 48kHz (DAC)
- Battery:
- Charging time: 2.5 hours
- Type: Lithium polymer battery
Sena Downloads
As a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the Sena 3S appeals to several types of riders. It is perfect for those who want to try a Bluetooth intercom set or those who need an easy-to-use system that isn’t expensive. To learn more about the Sena 3S Motorcycle Bluetooth headset and other accessories for your bike, visit check out my YouTube channel.
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How To Start A Yamaha R6
Starting a motorcycle is easier than it used to be, thanks to technology. While there are various kinds of bikes, starting a Yamaha R6 or other fuel-injected motorcycles is more or less then same across the board.
Here is how you start a fuel-injected motorcycle, like the Yamaha R6:
How To Start A Yamaha R6 Starting The Engine of a Yamaha R6
You can find this information in the owner’s manual of your bike, too. Before starting the bike, make sure you have done the following:
- The transmission is in neutral.
- The transmission is in gear, the clutch is pulled, and the kickstand/sidestand is stowed. Some modern models, Yamaha included, have a safety feature that will prevent the bike from starting if the sidestand hasn’t been raised.
Next, follow these steps precisely:
- Insert the key into the ignition.
- Turn the key to the ON position. Make sure the engine stop switch is set to the correct position.
- Warning lights and indicator lights should illuminate momentarily then disappear if conditions are satisfactory. These lights include:
- Oil level
- Coolant temperature
- Fuel level
- Shift timing
- Engine problems
- Immobilizer system
- Shift the transmission into neutral. The light should come on. If not, you might have an electrical circuit problem.
- Start the engine with the start switch.
- In the event of failure, wait a few seconds and try another start. Don’t draw out the time trying to start the engine to preserve battery power. Do not extend for more than 10 seconds.
General Instructions for a Fuel-Injected Motorcycle
Here’s some instructions to follow if you don’t have the make/model mentioned above:
How To Start A Motorcycle
- Put the motorcycle in neutral. Neutral is always located between 1st and 2nd gear.
- Put the key in the ignition if necessary.
* Note: Fuel-injected motorcycles have an engine management system. This means you don’t have to worry about using the choke lever. Only a small amount of throttle will be needed, regardless of engine temperature. - Start pulling the clutch near the left handlebar. Some riders choose to pull the clutch and front brake simultaneously, but the choice is yours.
- Press and hold the start button. You will find this on the right handlebar. Maintain your hold on the clutch.
- The motorcycle should automatically catch and start.
- If the engine doesn’t turn over and start immediately, you can try using the throttle while pressing the start button. Make sure you are holding the clutch.
- Remember to never crank the engine for more than 10 seconds clips at a time. Otherwise, you’re wasting battery power.
- You can slowly start to release the clutch.
Now, you’re ready to ride!
Final Thoughts
Unlike carburetor motors, fuel injection systems rarely fail. To prevent the pump from failing, do some routine maintenance. Get into the habit of listening to the bike and know what a healthy running engine sounds like. That way, if something unusual happens, you will be able to tell whether or not something is wrong with the pump fuse by sound alone.
Modern fuel-injected motorcycles are easy to start. Follow the instructions in this article, and you will have no problem.
For more information about how to start, ride, and care for your motorcycle, check out my YouTube channel. Hit the subscribe button for notifications whenever there’s an update. -
Yamaha R1 vs R6: Which one is right for you?
When it comes to sport bikes, Yamaha has a reputation for producing some of the best in the market. Two of their most popular models, the R1 and R6, are often compared and debated among riders. Both bikes are powerful, sleek, and designed for high-performance riding, but there are some key differences that may make one a better fit for you than the other.
Engine and Performance
- The R1 is powered by a 998cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 200 horsepower and 82 lb-ft of torque. This engine is designed for high-performance riding and can propel the R1 from 0-60 mph in just over 2 seconds.
- The R6, on the other hand, is powered by a 599cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 120 horsepower and 43 lb-ft of torque. While still a powerful engine, the R6’s power output is more manageable for those new to sport riding.
- The R1’s engine is also equipped with Yamaha’s crossplane crankshaft technology, which gives it a unique and distinct character, and allows for smooth power delivery.
- The R6 also features advanced engine management system, which includes YCC-T, Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle, that allows the rider to experience a smooth and natural throttle response, making it easier to control.
- The R1 is geared more towards experienced riders who are looking for a high-performance bike that can handle the demands of track riding and fast-paced riding on the street. Its powerful engine and advanced features can be difficult to handle for those new to sport bikes.
- The R6, on the other hand, is more suited to those who are just starting out in sport riding or who prefer a more manageable power output. Its engine is designed to deliver a balance of performance and control, making it easier for riders to handle.
- Ultimately, the choice between the two engines will come down to the rider’s level of experience and their desired riding style. The R1’s engine is designed for experienced riders looking for a high-performance bike, while the R6’s engine is designed for those just starting out or who prefer a more manageable power output.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Engine Type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Displacement 998cc 599cc Bore x Stroke 78.0 x 52.2mm 67.0 x 42.5mm Compression Ratio 13.0 : 1 13.1 : 1 Maximum Power 200.0 HP @ 13,500 RPM 120.0 HP @ 14,500 RPM Maximum Torque 82.6 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM 43.0 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM Fuel System Fuel Injection Fuel Injection Lubrication Wet sump Wet sump Clutch Type Wet, multiple-disc Wet, multiple-disc Ignition TCI TCI Starting System Electric Electric Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Maximum Speed 186 mph 156 mph 0-60 mph 2.7 sec 3.4 sec Handling and Suspension
When it comes to handling, both the R1 and R6 are equipped with advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride. However, the R1’s suspension is slightly more advanced, with fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a link-type rear suspension that offers a wide range of adjustability. This allows experienced riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preferences and riding style.
One of the main differences between the R1 and R6 in terms of handling is the wheelbase and riding position. The R1 has a longer wheelbase and a more relaxed riding position. This makes it more stable at high speeds and allows for more control during straight-line riding. The longer wheelbase also helps to reduce the bike’s tendency to wheelie, which can be a concern for some riders.
The R6, on the other hand, has a shorter wheelbase and a more aggressive riding position. This makes it more agile in tight corners and better suited for sport riding. The shorter wheelbase allows the R6 to turn more quickly and with less effort, making it more responsive to rider inputs. The riding position also puts the rider in a more forward-leaning position, which can be more comfortable for some riders during long rides.
In summary, both the R1 and R6 have advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride, but the R1’s is slightly more advanced. The R1’s longer wheelbase and relaxed riding position make it more stable at high speeds, while the R6’s shorter wheelbase and aggressive riding position make it more agile in tight corners. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Front Suspension 43mm USD fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel 41mm fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Rear Suspension Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Front Brake Dual 320mm discs, 4-piston calipers Dual 310mm discs, 4-piston calipers Rear Brake 220mm disc, 2-piston caliper 220mm disc, 1-piston caliper Front Tire 120/70ZR17 120/70ZR17 Rear Tire 190/55ZR17 180/55ZR17 Rake 24.0° 24.0° Trail 4.0 in 3.5 in Wheelbase 55.1 in 54.3 in Seat Height 32.9 in 33.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Design and Features
When it comes to design, the R1 and R6 have different looks that appeal to different riders. The R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with sharp lines and aerodynamic features that give it a futuristic look. The R1 also has a more aerodynamic bodywork that helps to reduce wind resistance and improve stability at high speeds.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design. The R6’s design is more classic and timeless, which some riders prefer. It has a more understated look that does not shout for attention. The R6 design is focused on providing a smooth and aerodynamic riding experience.
When it comes to features, the R1 comes with a range of advanced features such as a quick-shifter, traction control, and a slipper clutch. These features allow riders to experience a more advanced level of riding and can help to improve performance and safety. The R1 also comes with a range of electronic rider aids, such as selectable power modes and launch control, that allows riders to customize the bike’s performance to their personal preferences and riding conditions.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more basic set of features. It comes with features such as ABS and a standard clutch. It’s more suited to riders who want a more traditional sport bike experience and prefer a more minimalist approach to features.
In summary, the R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with a range of advanced features that cater to experienced riders, while the R6 has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design, and a more basic set of features. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style. Some riders prefer the advanced features and modern design of the R1, while others prefer the more traditional look and basic features of the R6.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Dimensions (LxWxH) 80.9 in x 27.6 in x 45.3 in 80.9 in x 27.2 in x 43.5 in Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb Fuel Capacity 4.5 gallons 4.5 gallons Transmission 6-speed 6-speed Final Drive Chain Chain Color options Varies by model year Varies by model year Advance Features Traction control, quick-shifter, slipper clutch, ABS Traction control, quick-shifter, ABS Price and Value
When it comes to price, the R1 and R6 have different price points. The R1 is the more expensive of the two, with a starting price of around $16,000. This puts it in the higher end of the sport bike market. The R1’s higher price tag can be attributed to its advanced features and higher performance capabilities.
The R6, on the other hand, has a more affordable price point, with a starting price of around $12,000. This makes it more accessible to a wider range of riders, especially those on a budget. The R6’s more affordable price point does not mean that it’s any less of a bike, it’s still a great option for sport riding enthusiasts, and it’s still a great value for its price.
While the R1 may have more advanced features and higher performance, the R6 offers a great value for its price and is a great option for those who are looking for a sport bike that won’t break the bank. The R6 is a great choice for those who want to experience the thrill of sport riding without having to spend a lot of money.
In summary, the R1 is more expensive than the R6, and it has more advanced features and higher performance capabilities. However, the R6 offers great value for its price, and it’s a great option for those on a budget. Both the R1 and R6 are great sport bikes that cater to different riders, and the choice between the two will come down to personal preferences, riding style, and budget.
Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6 Starting Price $18,000 $12,000 Warranty 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) Insurance cost Varies by location and personal circumstances Varies by location and personal circumstances Maintenance cost Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required In conclusion, both the Yamaha R1 and R6 are excellent sport bikes, each with its own set of strengths and weaknesses. The R1 is geared towards experienced riders looking for high performance and advanced features, while the R6 is a great option for those just starting out or on a budget. Ultimately, the choice between the two will come down to your personal preferences and riding style.
