The motorcycle jacket is one of the most iconic artifacts of biker culture, especially in public consciousness. When people picture a motorcyclist, they tend to envision someone clad in a well-made, well-fitted leather jacket.
With the continuous advancement of material sciences, the constant diversification of motorcycles themselves, and the rather varied climates of a global society, there are a plethora of jackets to choose from.
You’re bound to find the jacket that’s ideal for you, but there are a few variables to consider, such as what you find comfortable, the climates you’ll be riding in, and the type of motorcycle you’re going to use.
The Four Motorcycle Jacket Styles
There are basically for style groups, when it comes to these jackets – Cruiser, Racing, Sport/Street and Adventure Touring/Dual Sport. Each of these has its own strengths, making them ideal for a specific riding style. Surprisingly, no single type of material/textile is standard for any given style of jacket either.
- Cruiser – This is the classic motorcycle jacket that most picture – the icon, the stereotype. While most commonly seen in leather, they’re also available in many other styles, with a focus on comfort and aesthetic. These are ideal for casual riders and those that use their motorcycle as transportation going about their daily lives.
- Racing – Racing jackets are distinctive for their tight fit and somewhat “space age” appearance. The tight fit is to prevent wind resistance, and the distinct appearance is due to flex panels designed to allow mobility while providing padding against abrasions from dangerous high-speed offs. They tend to have a narrower collar, and a zipper to fasten to racing pants (preventing ride up).
- Sport/Street – These jackets are a casual modification of racing jackets, taking the slower speeds into account. They’re distinguished by the less prominent flex panels and the looser fit focusing on comfort. Seasonal jackets of this sort also include insulation and ventilation to help keep the rider cool or warm in harsh conditions.
- Adventure/Dual Sport – This is a less common style of jacket, used primarily by those whom go on long rides across varied, often rough climates and terrains. They look like nothing more than a survival jacket imitating a racing jacket, with pockets for gear, layers of insulation and impact padding, and a form-hugging design with an additional fastening around the neck. These are ideal for winter riding, or those long trans-continental adventures.
Important Motorcycle Jacket Factors To Consider
There are important factors to consider, which will determine the material you choose, and the style of jacket most suited to your needs.
- Leather or Textile – The first decision you’ll want to make is if you want leather or textile. Leather has a classic look, and many regard it as quite comfortable. However, its real strength is in its resistance to abrasion. However, for comfort and versatility in multiple climates and weather conditions, textiles tend to outperform it. This all comes down to whether you want comfort in various climates, or wish to focus on the durability of leather.
- Visibility/Reflectivity – While many would argue that subtlety is a sign of good everyday design, a jacket that catches the eye can actually be a major boon to safety. You want people to see you, and be aware of your presence and location on the road!
- Liners and Armor/Padding – If you ride in a temperate area with both hot and cold weather, you may want to look for a jacket with removable or all-weather lining that can help keep you warm in the winter, without the jacket cooking you in the summer. Similarly, even if you’re not a dare devil (and you shouldn’t be!), focusing on padding/armor around the chest, back and shoulders is also important, as these are areas where damage can be the worst if you have a nasty off.
- Fitment – Finally, you want a jacket that fits you well, and comfortably. It can be hard to find one that’s a perfect fit, but many styles of jacket have fitment adjustments on the waist and slides on the sleeves, which provide just the right amount of hug or slack for your personal comfort standards. You don’t want to wear a jacket that’s too tight or constrictive, cutting off circulation. The fatigue from this can lead to serious dangers.
To learn more about the different styles of jackets, which ones suit which styles of riding, and much more about the adventurous world of motorbiking, subscribe to my YouTube channel today!
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What Is the Average Cost of Motorcycle Insurance?
Motorcycles are fun, and have become a bit of an American icon representing free spirits, independence and a fun personality. Who hasn’t, at one time, wanted one, or at least to try riding one?
Well, like with any vehicle, you’re going to have to be trained to ride it, and you’re going to need insurance, as with anything on the road. Insurance is a pain, of course. It’s one of those things you shell out hundreds of dollars a year for, and hope to powers above that you never wind up needing once you have it.
It’s necessary. When you’re on the road traveling at speeds of over sixty miles per hour, accidents can and will eventually happen. Humans make mistakes, and some are, to put it frankly, idiots who just drive or ride carelessly. Insurance protects you from said idiots.
Insurance is a necessary evil, so it’s not free. Before investing in your motorcycle, you should do your due diligence regarding what upkeep of your bike is going to cost you. This includes maintenance, plates, tags, your license and, most importantly of all, said insurance.So, how expensive is motorcycle insurance? There’s no clear-cut answer to that, because different companies will vary, and more importantly, factors about yourself will directly, linearly impact price in every situation.
Let’s take some time to talk about these. If you see yourself described in any of these with prices you find painful, it may not be time for a motorcycle yet, or some other luxury may have to be given up.
What’s the Difference?
You’re thinking, you have a car, you know what car insurance rates are like, is there honestly a difference between cars and bikes in this regard? And if so, why?
To answer your first question, yes, there’s a significant difference in all regards between cars and bikes, from obtaining the license, to maintaining it, all the way up to insurance. It’s a horse of a very different color.
As for why? Well, all vehicles are inherently, mostly equally dangerous. How they’re dangerous is a big one. Vehicles can be dangerous to their passengers, of course, and often are. Their bigger danger is inflicting that damage on another unsuspecting driver, pedestrian, or other thing they may collide with.
A motorcycle is more dangerous to its rider(s). Hitting anything stationary like walls, polls, buildings or trees in a car is something you stand a decent chance of surviving, as the giant metal box around you absorbs the shock. Doing so on a motorcycle isn’t so pretty.
You could also fall off one of them doing 60, or be hit by one of the idiots we mentioned earlier whom drive negligently. When a four wheel vehicle hits a motorcycle, it usually does damage the car, though often fairly superficially. The motorcycle and its rider(s) enjoy no such luck. Riding a motorcycle requires far more vigilant operation due to this risk, the dangers of larger vehicles, and a plague of drivers who don’t check for motorcycles.Check for motorcycles, America.
Insurance Pricing
Like we said, due to a lot of variables, there’s no way to predict with one hundred percent certainty what your price would be, even with a lot of criteria, as these prices tend to be calculated at the time by an agent, due to the impact of variables changing from time to time.
Thus, the pricing below is an average, or generality. They’re good enough to ballpark whether or not you have the budget to ride a motorcycle legally.
Cruiser or Touring Motorcycle
- 25-60 yo, Good Driving Record, Liability Only – This going to be the least expensive scenario, as liability is the minimal legal coverage possible, just as with home or car insurance. It’s not hard to qualify for this insurance if you have a clean or at least good driving record. It may be possible to get it cheaper through your car insurance provider, if you’re in good standing with them as a customer. Est. Price: $100-$500/year
- 25-60 yo, Good Driving Record, Full Coverage – Chances are, you’ll want to protect what you love, and that means additional coverage for repairs, replacements, theft and other such concerns, not just covering you legally in an accident. This makes the price go up a good bit, but for this particular customer bracket, less than you might expect. This too may be cheaper through your existing auto insurance provider. You may also cheapen it further via installing approved anti-theft devices, purchasing approved safety gear, and so on. Est. Price: $400-$800/year
- 25-60 yo, Bad Driving Record, Full Coverage – A bad record can really haunt you with insurance. Not only can it be hard to get liability (due to having a record of being one), but the price of the full coverage will be considerably higher. We can’t really even give you a reliable estimate here, because it all depends on which provider you approach, what kind of bad driving record it is that you have, and what kind of mood the agent is in when they quote the price. Suffice it to say, it will be very expensive, possibly unmanageably so, and there aren’t really any lifehacks to make it cheaper. Et. Price: Impossible to guess, but tremendously high!
Crotch Rocket Sports Motorcycle
- 16-24 yo, Good Driving Record, Full Coverage – A 16-year-old probably shouldn’t be on a motorcycle, especially not a crotch rocket of all things. At that age, if motorcycles are something they want to pursue as a hobby or way of life, they should be learning fundamentals on dirt bikes. However, in some states, it is legal under guardianship, and at 18, anyone can legally drive anything if they earn the license to do so. Inexperience (which for motorcycles often takes liability only off the table) raises prices quite a bit, and full coverage is itself quite expensive. Parents might be able to get prices lower if policies give them some of the responsibility, thus lowering the premiums a little, but really, this is just going to be expensive, no matter how you slice it. Est. Price: $900-$1200/year
Are you a long-time rider just seeing if you can find a better price for your motorcycle insurance? Are you someone who’s planning to get into biking? Did these prices make you rethink how interested you were? I’m curious to know, so subscribe to me on YouTube, and let me know somewhere in the comments if these prices are obscene, about what you expected, or quite a bit lower than you feared. Then stick around, if you still want to ride, I’ve got some great content to get you started with one of America’s great hobbies!
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Motorcycle Basics: Before You Start Riding
Before even hopping on a motorcycle, it’s a smart decision to ride about the mechanics of the machine and familiarize yourself with key concepts. Having an idea in your head is going to come in handy when you’re faced with common beginner problems or later on when you’re on the road.
That’s how you really get a handle on the motorcycle. Let’s get started.Motorcycle Basic Controls
Most motorcycles have the same controls; but you should always check the owner’s manual since the locations and shapes of some features will vary between makes and models.
motorcycle controls indicators and equipment Motorcycle basic parts:
Handlebars
Right side:
- Electric start button – usually yellow or white.
- Engine cut-off switch – above the electric start button. Usually red.
- Above the right throttle is the front brake lever.
Left side:
- Horn
- Indicators (blinkers)
- Choke
- Headlight dip switch (high beams/low)
- Clutch lever.
Between the handlebars, you find the ignition key. Ahead of the handlebars, you will also see the speedometer, odometer, and the tachometer.
motorcycle handlebar controls 
motorcycle throttle Older Styles and Off-Road Bikes
Here’s some special considerations if you are on an older model or have an off-road bike:
Fuel petcock – these are usually attached to the left near the carburetor. You can lean down to switch the gas tank when the fuel is getting low and you need to get to the gas station ASAP.Kick starter – off-road bikes have kick starters more commonly than street bikes. The kick starter works when you push down on the lever, turning the engine crank and causing the pistons to put pressure against the spark plug. Fuel ignites to start the engine.
motorcycle shifting What To Check Before Your Ride Every Time
Professional schools throughout the country use the acronym T-CLOCs to help you remember what you should check before heading on your bike. These checks should be done at least once a year, depending on how often you are riding your bike. If you ride every single day, you will have to use T-CLOCs much more often.
- T – Tires
- C – (Main) Controls
- L – Lights & other controls
- O – Oil & other fluids
- C – Chassis
- S – Stands
Tires
Check the air pressure and look at the condition of the tires. Are they worn down? Cracking? What is the condition of the spokes? Do you note any air leakage?
Next, look at the rims, bearings, seals, and casts. Does each brake work as it should? Does the bike fight you when turning or slowing down?
Controls
The main controls include the handlebars, cables, hoses, levels, pedals, and throttle. Make sure the condition of the hoses is good and that everything is properly lubricated. The bars should be straight, and the throttle should move without resistance. Ensure the hoses aren’t cut or leaking. Any bulges, chafing, cracks or fraying of control cables needs to be repaired.
Lights & Other Controls
This includes the battery, wiring, tail and signal lights, switches, blinkers, headlight, and reflectors. Is everything illuminating? Do the blinkers flash right? Is fraying or kinks in the wiring? Are the beams strong enough in the dark?
Oil & Other Fluids
Check the gaskets and seals for any leaks. Ensure the oil level is good, along with other fluid levels. Check for sediment in the coolant reservoir.
Chassis
The chassis is made up of the frame, suspension, chains, belts, and fasteners. Nothing should rattle. Nothing should be frayed, cracking, peeling, or chipping. Ensure that everything is tight and that there is tension in the belts and chains.
Stands
Check for cracks or bends in the stands. Springs should hold their position without looseness.
Basic Mechanics of a Motorcycle
Being that a motorcycle rides on two wheels, it is designed to lean to either side. Through balance and input from the ride, the motorcycle maintains an upright position. Many beginners are afraid that the bike is going to fall over if they lean too far, but that’s not the case. Through the forces of physics, such as friction, momentum, and gravity, it’s nearly impossible for a bike that’s going to straight to fall over.
Engine
Another reason the motorcycle stays upright is the force of the pistons in the engine. These pistons move up and down, creating a force that helps the moving bike maintain it’s upward position.
Tires
The tires of motorcycles are designed to be rounded, ensuring that as the bike rounds a corner, the same surface area of the tire remains on the ground.
Chassis
For the beginner, all you need to know about the chassis is how to sit properly. When positioned properly on the bike, your wrists, knees, and back will be comfortable. You should also be able to engage your core and thigh muscles when using your body to maneuver.
Clutch
Most bikes are manual transmission. The clutch keeps the bike moving but also controls the speed by using friction. Clutches are usually bathed in the same oiled the engine uses, so if you ride the clutch for a while, you won’t cause damage. However, some bikes are different, so refer to the owner’s manual.
Wrapping It Up
For the new rider, your focus should be memorizing where the controls are and what certain parts of the bike do. By learning the general location, you can drive much more safely (and not while staring at the handlebars).
Remember, the everything takes practice. In the same way you learned to ride a bicycle, you need some patience with riding a motorcycle. With that, you’re ready to begin!
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Sena 3s Bluetooth Headset: Quick Review | SMH3
The Sena 3S Bluetooth Headset can best be described as simple but good, a tiny, light headset that weighs about the same as a few coins. Not only is it light, but it is also very easy to use with just two buttons used to control the headset. The headset is available in two versions – the 3S-B with a boom mic or the 3S-W with a Lilliputian mic.
The Sena 3S Motorcycle Bluetooth Headset
The Sena 3S Bluetooth Headset is the next generation of the Nexx SXCOM, the first self-contained motorcycle system which was a joint venture of Sena and Nexx. The headset was introduced at the 2014 AIMExpo Show in Orlando, Florida. The 3S is smaller and lighter than the SX-COM, containing a pair of speakers and a microphone. It is self-contained and uses a Bluetooth stereo headset and intercom. For a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the 3S has everything you need and nothing you don’t.
Using the Sena 3S
Early motorcycle headsets were extremely difficult to use. Some were so complicated, you needed to tape instructions to the gas tank to remember what sequence of buttons to press. They had very limited range and it was sometimes impossible to talk to passengers through the headsets. Included with the headset is a four-page “Quick Start” booklet or you can download a .pdf form of the leaflet from Sena here. The headset powers up using a quick press of the + and – buttons. Even better, these two buttons control the entire system, whether you want to change the volume, use your phone or pair a GPS or MP3.
SMH3 Sound Quality
The speakers on the Sena 3S are a little bulky, but not any worse than other types of motorcycle headsets. The sound is good and can be heard easily over the sound of the bike. The microphones are sensitive so the mouthpiece does not need to be pressed to your mouth like other systems. In fact, if the mic is too close and the volume to high, the speakers are overwhelmed. Music quality is good as well and you can distinguish bass sounds easily. For a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the sound is outstanding, however.
Should I Choose the Boom or Wired Version?
Whether to choose the boom or wired version of the 3S depends on several factors. The boom version is designed for open-face helmets due to the location of the operating buttons. The + and – buttons are located along the top end of the microphone and, although you can reach under the face shield to press them, this can be difficult. If you are also wearing thick gloves or have a large face shield, accessing the buttons on the boom mic is not easy. However, the wired version doesn’t work as well in full-face helmets, especially if there is a large chin vent. In those cases, wind noise can affect microphone performance.
Sena 3S Features
- Two-buttons on the control pad on the mic or the external mount control all features.
- Bluetooth intercom up to 200 meters (220 yards) in open terrain.
- Bluetooth pairing for mobile phones (can connect dual mobile phones).
- Voice prompts.
- Bluetooth stereo headset with A2DP.
- Bluetooth music playback control by AVRCP: play, pause, track forward and track back.
- Integrated audio booster.
- Up to 8 hours talk time, 7 days stand-by time.
- Individual volume control for each audio source.
- Firmware upgradeable.
Two-year warranty.
In the Box
- Bluetooth Built-in Speaker-microphone Unit
- USB Power & Data Cable (Micro USB Type)
- Microphone Sponges
- Male Velcro Pads for Speakers
- Female Velcro Pads for Speakers
Sena 3S Specifications
- Talk time: 8 hours.
- Stand-by time: 7 days.
- Working distance (intercom): up to 200 meters (220 yards) in open terrain.
- Operating temperature: -10˚C ~ 55˚C (14°F ~ 131°F).
- Dimensions:
- Speaker: 39.9 mm x 39.9 mm x 11.3 mm ( 1.6 in x 1.6 in x 0.4 in )
- Boom microphone length: 180.0 mm ( 7.1 in )
- Weight:
Headset: 59 g ( 2.08 oz. )
Bluetooth:- Profile: Headset Profile, Hands-Free Profile (HFP), Advanced Audio Distribution Profile (A2DP), Audio Video. Remote Control Profile (AVRCP).
- Bluetooth 3.0
- Audio:
- Built-in SBC Codec
- Noise cancellation
- Wind noise reduction
- Wide volume control
- Sample rate: 48kHz (DAC)
- Battery:
- Charging time: 2.5 hours
- Type: Lithium polymer battery
Sena Downloads
As a cheap motorcycle Bluetooth headset, the Sena 3S appeals to several types of riders. It is perfect for those who want to try a Bluetooth intercom set or those who need an easy-to-use system that isn’t expensive. To learn more about the Sena 3S Motorcycle Bluetooth headset and other accessories for your bike, visit check out my YouTube channel.
