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Exploring the World of Yamaha Sportbikes: A Beginner’s Guide

If you’re new to the world of sportbikes, Yamaha is a great place to start. With a wide range of models, there’s a Yamaha sportbike for every rider, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro. In this guide, we’ll take a closer look at what Yamaha has to offer and help you find the perfect sportbike for your needs.

Understanding the Different Types of Yamaha Sportbikes

When it comes to sportbikes, Yamaha offers a wide range of models to choose from, each with their own unique characteristics and features. Understanding the different types of Yamaha sportbikes can help you narrow down your options and find the perfect bike for your needs.

  • Sportbikes: These are the most powerful and agile bikes in Yamaha’s lineup, built for speed and handling. They include models like the R1, R7, R6, and R3. These bikes feature aerodynamic bodywork and are designed to be ridden at high speeds. They typically have high-performance engines and advanced suspension systems, making them ideal for track riding and sporty street riding.
  • Supersports:  These are similar to sportbikes but with a more comfortable riding position and slightly less power. They include models like the FZ-09 and FZ1. These bikes are built for riders who want the performance of a sportbike but with a more relaxed riding position. They typically have slightly detuned engines and more comfortable seats, making them a great option for long-distance riding.
  • Naked Bikes:  These are sportbikes with no fairings or bodywork, giving them a more raw, stripped-down look. They include models like the FZ-07 and FZ-10. These bikes are designed to be ridden in a more upright position and often have more accessible power and torque. They’re more versatile than sportbikes and can be used for both city and highway riding.
  • Sport Touring Bikes:  These are sportbikes with added features for long-distance riding, such as comfortable seats and large storage capacity. They include models like the FJR1300 and Super Ténéré. These bikes have more comfortable seating, wind protection, and luggage capacity. They’re designed for long-distance riders who want the performance of a sportbike but with the added convenience of touring features.

By understanding the different types of Yamaha sportbikes, you can make a more informed decision about which bike is right for you. Whether you’re a beginner looking for an entry-level bike or an experienced rider looking for a track-ready machine, Yamaha has a sportbike that will fit your needs.

Getting to Know the Yamaha R Series

Getting to Know the Yamaha R Series

The Yamaha R Series is a line of sportbikes that is well-known for its high-performance engines and advanced suspension systems. The R Series includes models like the R1, R6, and R3. These bikes are designed for riders who want the ultimate in speed and handling, and are some of the most powerful and agile bikes in Yamaha’s lineup.

  • Yamaha R1: The R1 is the flagship model of the R Series. It is powered by a 999cc liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces over 200 horsepower. The R1 also features a slipper clutch, advanced suspension system, and a quick-shifter. This bike is designed for experienced riders who want the ultimate in speed and handling.
  • Yamaha R6: The R6 is another popular model in the R Series. It is powered by a 599cc liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces over 130 horsepower. The R6 also features a slipper clutch, advanced suspension system, and a quick-shifter. This bike is designed for experienced riders who want a sporty, high-performance motorcycle with a more manageable power output.
  • Yamaha R3: The R3 is the entry-level model of the R Series. It is powered by a 321cc liquid-cooled, inline twin-cylinder engine that produces over 41 horsepower. The R3 also features a slipper clutch, advanced suspension system, and a quick-shifter. This bike is designed for beginner riders who want to experience the thrill of a sportbike, but with a more manageable power output.

Overall, the Yamaha R Series is a line of high-performance sportbikes that is perfect for riders who want the ultimate in speed and handling. Whether you’re an experienced rider looking for a track-ready machine or a beginner looking for an entry-level bike, the R Series has a model that will fit your needs.

Yamaha R7: The Controversial Model

The Yamaha R7 was a limited edition sportbike that was produced by Yamaha from 1999 to 2002. The bike was based on the YZF-R1, but featured a smaller engine and a more compact frame. The R7 was designed to compete in the Superstock class of road racing, and it was quite successful in that regard.

However, the R7 was also notorious for its high price tag and limited availability. At the time, it cost significantly more than the standard R1, and only 500 units were produced each year. This made the R7 a highly sought-after bike, but also one that was difficult to obtain.

Another controversial aspect of the R7 was its engine. The R7 was powered by a 749cc liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produced around 120 horsepower. This was less than the standard R1, which produced around 150 horsepower. Some critics felt that the R7’s engine was underpowered for its price tag, while others praised its smooth power delivery.

Despite its controversies, the Yamaha R7 remains a highly respected bike among sportbike enthusiasts. Its rarity and exclusivity make it a highly desirable bike, and its performance on the track is still highly regarded. However, it is important to remember that the R7 was designed for a specific purpose, as a Superstock racing bike, and it’s not a bike for everyone. It might not be suitable for daily riders or for those who want a more versatile motorcycle.

Other Yamaha Sportbikes to Consider

In addition to the R Series, Yamaha offers a variety of other sportbikes that are worth considering. Some of the other popular models include:

  • Yamaha FZ Series: This is a line of sportbikes that is designed for riders who want a balance of speed and practicality. The FZ Series includes models like the FZ-09, FZ-07, and FZ-10. These bikes are powered by liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engines and feature advanced suspension systems. They are perfect for riders who want a sporty motorcycle that can be used for both commuting and weekend rides.
  • Yamaha MT Series: This is a line of sportbikes that is designed for riders who want a more aggressive riding position. The MT Series includes models like the MT-09, MT-07, and MT-10. These bikes are powered by liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engines and feature advanced suspension systems. They are perfect for riders who want a sporty motorcycle that can be used for both commuting and weekend rides, but with a more aggressive riding position.
  • The V-Max: This is a muscle bike that is powered by a massive 1,679cc liquid-cooled, V4 engine. It produces over 170 horsepower and features advanced suspension systems. It is designed for experienced riders who want a powerful and unique motorcycle that can be used for both commuting and weekend rides.
  • The Super Ténéré: This is a adventure bike that is powered by a liquid-cooled, parallel twin-cylinder engine. It produces over 110 horsepower and features advanced suspension systems. It is designed for experienced riders who want a powerful and unique motorcycle that can be used for both commuting and weekend rides.

Overall, Yamaha offers a wide range of sportbikes that are perfect for riders of all experience levels. Whether you’re a beginner looking for an entry-level bike or an experienced rider looking for a high-performance machine, Yamaha has a model that will fit your needs.

Choosing the Right Yamaha Sportbike for You

When choosing a Yamaha sportbike, it’s important to consider your experience level, riding style, and budget. If you’re a beginner, the R3 or FZ-07 may be a good place to start. If you’re an experienced rider looking for a track-ready bike, the R1 or R6 may be a better fit. And if you’re looking for a sporty yet versatile ride, the FZ-09 or FZ1 may be the perfect choice.

In conclusion, Yamaha has a lot to offer for sportbike riders, from entry-level bikes to track-ready machines. Take the time to research and compare different models, and make sure to test ride a few before making a decision. With the right Yamaha sportbike, you’ll be able to enjoy the thrill of the ride and push your limits on the road or track. Don’t forget to also consider the cost of ownership, including insurance, maintenance, and accessories. Overall, Yamaha Sportbikes are a great choice for any rider looking for a high-performance motorcycle that offers a balance of power, handling, and versatility. Happy riding!

Yamaha R1 vs R6: Which one is right for you?

When it comes to sport bikes, Yamaha has a reputation for producing some of the best in the market. Two of their most popular models, the R1 and R6, are often compared and debated among riders. Both bikes are powerful, sleek, and designed for high-performance riding, but there are some key differences that may make one a better fit for you than the other.

Engine and Performance

  • The R1 is powered by a 998cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 200 horsepower and 82 lb-ft of torque. This engine is designed for high-performance riding and can propel the R1 from 0-60 mph in just over 2 seconds.
  • The R6, on the other hand, is powered by a 599cc, liquid-cooled, inline four-cylinder engine that produces 120 horsepower and 43 lb-ft of torque. While still a powerful engine, the R6’s power output is more manageable for those new to sport riding.
  • The R1’s engine is also equipped with Yamaha’s crossplane crankshaft technology, which gives it a unique and distinct character, and allows for smooth power delivery.
  • The R6 also features advanced engine management system, which includes YCC-T, Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle, that allows the rider to experience a smooth and natural throttle response, making it easier to control.
  • The R1 is geared more towards experienced riders who are looking for a high-performance bike that can handle the demands of track riding and fast-paced riding on the street. Its powerful engine and advanced features can be difficult to handle for those new to sport bikes.
  • The R6, on the other hand, is more suited to those who are just starting out in sport riding or who prefer a more manageable power output. Its engine is designed to deliver a balance of performance and control, making it easier for riders to handle.
  • Ultimately, the choice between the two engines will come down to the rider’s level of experience and their desired riding style. The R1’s engine is designed for experienced riders looking for a high-performance bike, while the R6’s engine is designed for those just starting out or who prefer a more manageable power output.

 

Getting to Know the Yamaha R Series

 

Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6
Engine Type Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, DOHC, forward-inclined parallel 4-cylinder, 4-valves
Displacement 998cc 599cc
Bore x Stroke 78.0 x 52.2mm 67.0 x 42.5mm
Compression Ratio 13.0 : 1 13.1 : 1
Maximum Power 200.0 HP @ 13,500 RPM 120.0 HP @ 14,500 RPM
Maximum Torque 82.6 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM 43.0 lb-ft @ 11,500 RPM
Fuel System Fuel Injection Fuel Injection
Lubrication Wet sump Wet sump
Clutch Type Wet, multiple-disc Wet, multiple-disc
Ignition TCI TCI
Starting System Electric Electric
Transmission 6-speed 6-speed
Final Drive Chain Chain
Maximum Speed 186 mph 156 mph
0-60 mph 2.7 sec 3.4 sec

Handling and Suspension

When it comes to handling, both the R1 and R6 are equipped with advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride. However, the R1’s suspension is slightly more advanced, with fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a link-type rear suspension that offers a wide range of adjustability. This allows experienced riders to fine-tune the suspension to their personal preferences and riding style.

One of the main differences between the R1 and R6 in terms of handling is the wheelbase and riding position. The R1 has a longer wheelbase and a more relaxed riding position. This makes it more stable at high speeds and allows for more control during straight-line riding. The longer wheelbase also helps to reduce the bike’s tendency to wheelie, which can be a concern for some riders.

The R6, on the other hand, has a shorter wheelbase and a more aggressive riding position. This makes it more agile in tight corners and better suited for sport riding. The shorter wheelbase allows the R6 to turn more quickly and with less effort, making it more responsive to rider inputs. The riding position also puts the rider in a more forward-leaning position, which can be more comfortable for some riders during long rides.

In summary, both the R1 and R6 have advanced suspension systems that provide a smooth and responsive ride, but the R1’s is slightly more advanced. The R1’s longer wheelbase and relaxed riding position make it more stable at high speeds, while the R6’s shorter wheelbase and aggressive riding position make it more agile in tight corners. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style.

How To Start A Yamaha R6

Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6
Front Suspension 43mm USD fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel 41mm fork, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel
Rear Suspension Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel Single shock, fully adjustable, 4.7 in travel
Front Brake Dual 320mm discs, 4-piston calipers Dual 310mm discs, 4-piston calipers
Rear Brake 220mm disc, 2-piston caliper 220mm disc, 1-piston caliper
Front Tire 120/70ZR17 120/70ZR17
Rear Tire 190/55ZR17 180/55ZR17
Rake 24.0° 24.0°
Trail 4.0 in 3.5 in
Wheelbase 55.1 in 54.3 in
Seat Height 32.9 in 33.5 in
Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb

 

Design and Features

When it comes to design, the R1 and R6 have different looks that appeal to different riders. The R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with sharp lines and aerodynamic features that give it a futuristic look. The R1 also has a more aerodynamic bodywork that helps to reduce wind resistance and improve stability at high speeds.

The R6, on the other hand, has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design. The R6’s design is more classic and timeless, which some riders prefer. It has a more understated look that does not shout for attention. The R6 design is focused on providing a smooth and aerodynamic riding experience.

When it comes to features, the R1 comes with a range of advanced features such as a quick-shifter, traction control, and a slipper clutch. These features allow riders to experience a more advanced level of riding and can help to improve performance and safety. The R1 also comes with a range of electronic rider aids, such as selectable power modes and launch control, that allows riders to customize the bike’s performance to their personal preferences and riding conditions.

The R6, on the other hand, has a more basic set of features. It comes with features such as ABS and a standard clutch. It’s more suited to riders who want a more traditional sport bike experience and prefer a more minimalist approach to features.

In summary, the R1 has a more modern and aggressive design, with a range of advanced features that cater to experienced riders, while the R6 has a more traditional sport bike look, with a sleek and minimalist design, and a more basic set of features. The choice between the two will come down to the rider’s personal preferences and riding style. Some riders prefer the advanced features and modern design of the R1, while others prefer the more traditional look and basic features of the R6.

Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6
Dimensions (LxWxH) 80.9 in x 27.6 in x 45.3 in 80.9 in x 27.2 in x 43.5 in
Wet Weight 441 lb 366 lb
Fuel Capacity 4.5 gallons 4.5 gallons
Transmission 6-speed 6-speed
Final Drive Chain Chain
Color options Varies by model year Varies by model year
Advance Features Traction control, quick-shifter, slipper clutch, ABS Traction control, quick-shifter, ABS

Price and Value

When it comes to price, the R1 and R6 have different price points. The R1 is the more expensive of the two, with a starting price of around $16,000. This puts it in the higher end of the sport bike market. The R1’s higher price tag can be attributed to its advanced features and higher performance capabilities.

The R6, on the other hand, has a more affordable price point, with a starting price of around $12,000. This makes it more accessible to a wider range of riders, especially those on a budget. The R6’s more affordable price point does not mean that it’s any less of a bike, it’s still a great option for sport riding enthusiasts, and it’s still a great value for its price.

While the R1 may have more advanced features and higher performance, the R6 offers a great value for its price and is a great option for those who are looking for a sport bike that won’t break the bank. The R6 is a great choice for those who want to experience the thrill of sport riding without having to spend a lot of money.

In summary, the R1 is more expensive than the R6, and it has more advanced features and higher performance capabilities. However, the R6 offers great value for its price, and it’s a great option for those on a budget. Both the R1 and R6 are great sport bikes that cater to different riders, and the choice between the two will come down to personal preferences, riding style, and budget.

 

Specification Yamaha R1 Yamaha R6
Starting Price $18,000 $12,000
Warranty 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty) 1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty)
Insurance cost Varies by location and personal circumstances Varies by location and personal circumstances
Maintenance cost Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required Varies by usage, regular maintenance is required

In conclusion, both the Yamaha R1 and R6 are excellent sport bikes, each with its own set of strengths and weaknesses. The R1 is geared towards experienced riders looking for high performance and advanced features, while the R6 is a great option for those just starting out or on a budget. Ultimately, the choice between the two will come down to your personal preferences and riding style.

How To Push Start A Motorcycle

Any serious motorcyclist will know the essentials, like wearing appropriate safety gear, proper riding position, turning mechanisms, and how to do a push start. Wait, you don’t know how to clutch start a motorcycle? What happens if you can’t start the motor with the switch? Good thing you’re here. In just a few steps, you can learn how to effectively push start a motorcycle and get riding in no time. 

Before You Push Start

There are a few things to keep in mind if you plan on push starting (also called bump starting and clutch starting) your bike. First, push starting isn’t the ideal method, and it sometimes doesn’t work.

Next, if your motorcycle isn’t starting, check some things that sometimes prevent a motorcycle from starting:

  • Ignition kill switch – make sure the kill switch is set to the STOP position.
  • Fuel level – your fuel gauge could be faulty, so pop the cap and check to make sure you’re not running on E.
  • Fuel petcock – if you have a non-EFI bike, make sure the fuel tap petcock is OFF.
  • Kickstand – some bikes have an added safety feature that prevents it from starting if the kickstand is down.
  • Gear set in neutral – if the gear is engaged, the bike will refuse to start. Do a double-check.

If none of these apply to your situation, then it’s time to push start your bike.

How To Push Start

Follow these steps in the order listed.

Find A Hill

While you could get a few friends to push your motorcycle, you’re not always going to be traveling in a group. When that happens, you need to find yourself a hill. Steep slopes help you get to the proper speed to bypass the start system.

On a flat road? Don’t despair. If you can push the bike at a reasonable speed then jump on and release the clutch, you can still do a push start.

Engage 2nd or 3rd Gear

A lesser known trick to a successful push start is to avoid 1st gear and go straight to 2nd or 3rd gear. Avoid 1st gear entirely if your bike as a high compression engine.

The reason why skipping 1st gear is important is because you could potentially lock the rear tire, which would result in a crash.

Clutch, Release, and Start

Start moving down the hill to get speed while holding the clutch. As you start to gain momentum, release the clutch and press the start button in a seamless motion. Quickly apply some throttle, and the motorcycle should start. As soon as the bike is roaring, engage the clutch.

It’s important to stay in full control of the motorcycle. Please do this as far from traffic as possible, just in case you end up swerving.

If this doesn’t work on the first try, don’t give up. Stop. Reset yourself, and repeat the first three steps again.

Rev That Engine

This is the final step—the most integral. If you don’t immediately rev the engine, the motorcycle will die again. Stay focused.

Depress the clutch slightly and moderately rev the engine. Don’t let it scream. Keep the revving slightly high so the motor doesn’t choke down. The worse case scenario if you don’t rev the motor is that the bike will die, and you don’t want that—especially since you’ll still be rolling down a hill.

Optionally, once you have the engine running, you can switch to neutral and apply the brakes while revving the engine. This will help you stay focused on keeping the engine from choking. This works best if the motorcycle is cold.

Get Riding

Once the engine has warmed up, do a quick ride to make sure everything is working as it should. Remember that your safety is the most important thing when push starting a motorcycle. Be sure to practice the push starting methods a few times before attempting it for real out on the road. You should be wearing protective gear and be away from traffic. If not, you could seriously hurt yourself and others.

That wraps up how to push start a motorcycle. Just follow the steps that have been outlined, commit to safety, and you will soon be push starting like the pros!

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Beginner’s Guide To Shifting Gears On A Motorcycle

An underrated aspect of learning how to ride a motorcycle goes beyond turning and popping wheelies. No, it’s something seemingly much more simple than that. Do you shift? Sure, shifting gears should be easy, because it’s a basic function; but shifting gear does have a layer of complexity that beginning cyclists could have problems mastering right away. 

Here’s everything you need to know about shifting gears on a motorcycle. 

Motorcycle Gears Basics

The three basic controls are ones that you might already know—the throttle, the clutch, and the gear selector. You use the throttle to rev the engine, the clutch to engage and disengage the brakes (transmission), and to select gears. For instance, if you pull the left hand clutch towards you, the engine revs without ever moving the bike. 

The gear pattern can be clicked through by using the gear selector lever and is moved by your left foot. Most bikes have the following gears, starting with the lowest first: 

• First gear
• Neutral
• Second gear
• Third gear
• Fourth gear
• Fifth gear 
• Sixth gear (depending on the bike)

As you can see, shifting fears is sequential. Up or down, neutral (N) is always put between 1st and 2nd gear. 

Technique For Motorcycle Shifting

It’s best to learn the proper technique required to maneuver through shifting gears before learning how to do anything else. 

Steps of the proper shifting technique:

  1. Disengage the clutch. Use your left hand to pull it towards you. 
  2. Select the correct gear by using your left food on the shifting lever.
  3. Slightly rev the engine if shifting up.
  4. Gradually release the clutch. Don’t pop it.
  5. Feather the throttle while releasing the clutch to accelerate smoothly.
  6. Continue revving if you which to switch to another gear in succession. Otherwise, find a nice cruising speed to maintain. 

Shifting With Sound and Feel

Have you ever heard wailing motorcycle engines on the road? You’ve probably thought to yourself, “Is that rider even shifting?” That’s you using the basic rule of sound. In basic terms, if an engine starts to scream, you shift to an upper gear. If the engine starts to grumble, then shift the engine lower. 

There a many methods to help you do this properly. Beginners should only focus on the simplest method. Afterwards, you can experiment. 

Start off by riding in first gear. Try to sense to point when you need to switch to second gear. This means the engine isn’t yet screaming, but you are feeling the natural inclination to gain more speed. The clutch will disengage easily. 

Should the engine start to scream, this means you’ve hit the red line, otherwise known as the built-in limiter. The limiter is placed in the engine to ensure the bike doesn’t overextend itself and burn up. 

If you shift a gear up too soon, the bike could stall or choke. Restart the bike. Try again. Keep working through the gears until you can hear and feel when it is time to gear up. 

Shifting Smoothly

You will notice that there’s no mathematical equation to figure out the “when” behind shifting. Every bike has a unique behavior that depends on how you handle it. For instance, if the bike jerks when you release the clutch, you’re being too abrupt. If the bike tends to lurch during shifts, you’re applying too much throttle. If the motorcycle’s speed dips during shifting, you need to rev the engine more between gear changes. Pay attention to the clutch, throttle, and gear selector, because these all interact and are dependent on one another. 

Mechanics of Movement

Let’s back-up for a moment. Now that you have this idea in your mind that you need to listen and feel and understand with muscle memory what to do when shifting, it’s time to talk about what is happening inside the bike while you’re doing the actions. 

The clutch is the first thing you touch when it’s time to shift gears, unless you have an automatic motorcycle or a quick shift. Once the clutch is engaged, meaning the lever is out and power is send to the rear tie, little springs press on the clutch plate that connect the primary drive to the part that rotates from the pistons going up and down. 

When you pull the lever, the plate separates and releases the connection to the motor. In this moment, you can change gears. 

That’s when you take your foot and move the gear selector. On the gear selector is a piece called a collar that has “dogs.” This dogs mesh together with the fork in the same way you interlace your fingers. When you move your foot up and down on the selector, the dogs and fork connect to help change the gear. Then, you find the right gear and accelerate. 

Keep this in mind while reading the next two sections about upshifting and downshifting. 

Upshifting

Most of this article has been devoted to upshifting. Upshifting is easier than downshifting, because you are accelerating. This means that if you do any of the steps of shifting a little too quick, there’s less of an impact. Of course, this could result in a sudden jolt of power to the rear wheel, causing the front tire to come off the ground. 

(Note: You should only practice stunts in a controlled environment and when you have gained enough experience.) 

Downshifting

On the opposite end of upshifting is downshifting, which tends to go a little less smoothly. If you release the clutch too quickly while downshifting, the sudden downward change can cause the gear to slow down the rear tire, compressing the front end, and causing a lack of traction in the back end. You need to be able to control the release of the clutch. 

Be careful when rounding corners and decreasing your gears for this reason. You don’t want to suddenly lose traction right when you need more grip on the asphalt. That could cause the bike to skid to the side. 

False Neutral

When downshifting, you could accidentally hit a false neutral. This can happen anywhere there shouldn’t be a neutral, including between 3rd and 4th or 4th and 5th and so on. This could happen if the dogs don’t connect with the fork when selecting gears. There is power loss to the rear wheel. 

If you end up in a false neutral, pull on the clutch, and put the bike into a higher gear. You can prevent excessive damage to the bike. Be quick and make sure you move into the correct once you get out of false neutral. 

With that, you should be able to master the basics of shifting. Practice the timing of the clutch release and working with the gear selector for a bit. You will soon be able to shift between gears like someone who has been riding for many years. 

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How Often Do I Need To Change Motorcycle Engine Oil?

Changing engine oil is essential to maintaining the life of your beloved motorcycle. If you don’t consistently check the oil level and change the oil when it gets old or dirty, the lifespan of the motor is severely shortened. 

Let’s get started. 

How Often You Need To Change Motorcycle Oil

Most riders will ask the question, “How often do I need to change the motorcycle engine oil?” at least once. The answer depends on the make/model of your bike (we’ll be discussed a Yamaha YZF-R6), the type of oil you used, and how often you ride. 

If you used a mineral-based engine oil (the simplest, cheapest kind), then you should change the engine every 2,000 miles if you’re riding frequently. If you don’t ride regularly, you can change your oil at least twice a year. 

When using a semi-synthetic engine oil, change the oil once every 5,000-6,000 miles. 

Lastly, if you use a fully-synthetic engine oil, change the oil after 7,000-10,000 miles. 

Semi- and fully-synthetic motor oils are more expensive than mineral-based engine oil, but the plus side is that they last much longer. The only time when you might have to change before the recommended mileage, regardless of the motor oil type, is if you are riding your bike every single day or you commute a great distance frequently. 

Yamaha YZF-R6 Oil Change Instructions

You can find the following information in the owner’s manual of your Yamaha YZF-R6. If you don’t have this specific Yamaha model, it’s recommended you find the specific instructions for your make and model, as the steps could be different. 

  • Checking the engine oil level: 
  • Put the motorcycle on a level surface and hold it in an upright position, as straight as possible. Slight tilts could result in a false read. 
  • Start the engine. Let the oil warm up for several minutes. 
  • Turn the motorcycle off again. 
  • Wait for the oil to settle. This may take a few minutes. 
  • Remove the engine oil dipstick. Wipe it clean with a cloth then insert the stick back into the fuel reservoir. Take a moment to look at the maximum and minimum oil level lines before testing if you’re not familiar with it. Don’t screw the stick in. Remove it again to get your reading. 
  • If the engine oil level is at or below the minimum level, remove the engine filler cap and add a sufficient amount of oil to get the level to the recommended spot. 
  • Insert then tighten the engine oil dipstick. Afterwards, install and tighten the oil filler cap. 

During this stage of your oil check, you might find that you need to change the oil completely. 

How To Tell If You Need An Oil Change

The normal color of oil is transparent, brownish, maybe even slightly black. When oil is “clean,” it works best for protecting and keeping the engine clean. 

Now, “dirty” oil is when the water consistency is lost. It feels slightly gritty when rubbed between your fingers. The color will be darker, if not completely black, and it will have lost it’s transparency. 

You might also notice that the engine is making bizarre noises when the oil is dirty. All these signs point to needing an oil change. 

How to change engine oil on a Yamaha YZF-R6

  • Put the motorcycle on a level surface. 
  • Removing the cowling. 
  • Start the engine for several minutes. Once warmed, turn the bike off. 
  • Place an oil pan under the engine to collect used oil. 
  • Remove the engine oil filler cap, the engine oil drain bolt, and lastly the gasket to drain the oil from the crankcase. 
  • Once the oil is drained completely, replace the gasket and bolt, fill the tank to the recommended level, and then replace the engine oil filler cap. 

When To Change The Oil Filter

Change the filter every time you change the oil or once every 2,000 to 3,000 miles if you’re using synthetic motor oil. You don’t want to ride around with a dirty, old oil filter because it traps any dirt, dust, debris, metal, and sludge that would otherwise harm your engine. 

Not a frequent rider? Again, change your oil at least twice a year and pair that with a filter change. 

Conclusion

To wrap everything up, frequent riders will need to change their oil more often than those who ride once in a while. The quality of the motor oil changes the mileage for oil changes, and synthetic oils will have the longest life. Make sure to check the oil level and consistency often so you can protect the engine and preserve the life of your ride. 

Enjoyed this information and want more? Head over to my YouTube channel. Subscribe and receive notifications for every update.

How to Ride a Motorcycle in the Rain

Be it a shower or deluge, rain can be your worst nightmare when on a motorcycle if you’re not properly prepared. During the spring and winter months, precipitation is unpredictable, and if you are in a rainy state, expect to get caught at least one shower while riding your bike. Rather than avoiding rainy days altogether, learn to ride your motorcycle in the rain. 

Before The Ride

For maximum safety, inspect your bike to make sure it’s ready to tackle a ride in the rain. 

• Fluids: Check your motorcycle to make sure there’s no brake fluid or oil leakage. While oil leaks aren’t very dangerous in dry conditions, when oil mixes with water, the road becomes a slick and dangerous course. 
• Brakes: Make sure the brake pads have enough material left to help you with prompt stops in wet conditions. 
• Tires: Check that your tires have enough tread to push water away and grip the road. You also want to ensure they have enough air pressure. Under or over-inflated tires react differently in water, but both are potentially dangerous. 

Weatherproof Gear

In order to keep you and your bike safe, you should have the correct riding gear and attire ready to go. You can choose between water-resistant and waterproof items. Water-resistant will shed water, but after a period of time, water will begin to permeate the material. Waterproof, on the other hand, will never allow for water to absorb into the material, unless you get completely submerged in water. 

• Water-resistant or Waterproof Gear: Jackets and one piece suits should be zipped up tightly when riding in the rain to prevent water from seeping. Zippers should have a flap that covers the edges to protect the interstices. Cuffs on the jacket or coat need to be long enough to reach your gloves. 

• Riding Boots and Gloves: More effective deterrents against complete saturation of your clothes. Both boots and gloves need to be tight enough to prevent water from dripping through. No one likes cold, wet socks. 

• Helmets and Goggles: For the best protection, get a full-faced helmet. If you have a ½ or ¾ face helmet, get a pair of goggles. Pair the goggles with a waterproof balaclava that can shed water away from your face. 

• Miscellaneous: If you have a saddlebag or storage unit, consider keeping a change of dry clothes with you. Also, keep plastic bags with you to keep valuables dry if you happen to get caught in a sudden rainstorm. Dry bags or waterproof backpacks can also help. 

Be Cautious Of Road Conditions

Be Cautious Of Road Conditions

Wet roads are dangerous for motorcyclists and other vehicle drivers, regardless of how prepared you may be. Even when the roads appear clean, they could be slick from oil. Here are some things to consider when traveling by motorcycle in the rain: 

Less Traction

The first hour of rainfall is the most dangerous, because oils absorbed into the asphalt rise to the surface. During this time, it’s best to pullover at a rest stop about wait for about an hour. Once the rain has washed the road of oil and debris, you can head out again. Remember that this also means an increased braking distance. 

Less Visibility

Sometimes, the fog or mist is too dense, or the rain is falling so hard you or other drivers can’t see. You can make yourself more visible to the traffic around you by wearing high visibility clothing and reflective patches. 

Hydroplaning Risk

Hydroplaning occurs when water prevents the tire from making contact with the road. Reduce the risk of hydroplaning by avoiding painted lines, manhole covers, iridescent patches on the road and puddles (oil), tar snakes, metal crossing, and other places with reduced traction. 

Also, you should reduce your speed when approaching puddles you can’t maneuver around. Start slowing down, squeeze the clutch, then coast through the puddle. If you’re going too fast, it’s better to maintain that velocity rather than slowing down abruptly, as this will reduce friction could cause fishtailing. 

Decrease the risk of hydroplaning further with all-weather tires. 

Nature’s Wrath

Stay aware of lightning, hail, ice, sleet, and other conditions that could transpire in a rainstorm. High winds can cause debris to fall into the road, and you might not see it due to decreased visibility. If it starts lightning, pull over. 

Conclusion

Not every day is going to be perfect riding weather. Planning ahead and being prepared goes a long way when dealing with rainy conditions. Not only will you stay dry, but you will arrive at your destination safely. 

Want more riding tips? Head over to my YouTube channel. Subscribe to receive notifications and never miss an update.

The Ultimate List Of Motovloggers On YouTube Part II

Are you looking for motovloggers to follow?

Be sure to check out our other lists:

Shout Out To PhatboyR6 and No.Bumpers for helping me come up with this collection of motovloggers. So here they are in no particular order! 

Healthy foods are more important than the type of diet to reduce heart disease risk!

People usually don’t understand how dieting can negatively affect their body if they stop taking proper nutrients! You may have heard about the Keto diet after which many people are going crazy and are confirming its guaranteed results! Well, you guys should know that Keto is no doubt an interestingly effective diet, but on the other hand, we will also like you to know that it can affect your health in the long term. You certainly need the TDEE calculator to calculate your daily calorie requirements. This would be any expected energy caused by dieting. The reason is because the Keto diet increases your consumption of fats and proteins and restricts the intake of carbs and other important minerals!

Because of this very, your body becomes very weak; in fact, some people complain about their hair fall, loss of nails and constipation. These are some of the most common side effects of the Keto diet and then obviously as you know that carbs and glucose is an important part of improving your health and blood flow and it has direct effects on the heart. We understand that it is important for you to lose weight, but it is important to eat healthily and here is the solution to our problem.

Follow A Macro Counting Diet!

Now if you are unfamiliar with the term macros, then you should know that macro actually stands for the macronutrients that are needed by your body. Now we would like you guys to know that the macronutrients are actually known as the most calorie providing foods to your body. To state the importance of the macronutrients, we will like you to know that these are the nutrients that are needed by our body to exist and to function properly and actively Without the proper intake of these nutrients, your body will collapse!

Now, these nutrients consist of three components, and these are better known by their common names carbohydrates, fats, and proteins! Now you should know that your body needs a specific amount of calorie intake depending on our age and the shape and size of our body. Please understand that if you simply regulate the calorie intake, then you can get rid of the extra weight with minimal effort.

Now here is the proper way of calculating macronutrients!

Macro Calculator!


Now the free macro calculator tool that is available on the web today is one of the most efficient tools that you can use to calculate my macros! With the help of the macro calculator, you can easily add the food you are planning on eating and can get the macros for weight loss! With the help of the macro calculator tool, you can easily adjust the diet and only use the macros safe for weight loss! He macronutrient calculator is also available on the app store of your mobile!

What Is A Pescatarian Diet?

Before the industrial revolution, specialized diets were something employed mostly for spiritual reasons. However, with a better understanding of biology and nutrition, they have, over the past century and a half, moved from just spiritual journeys, to ways of life to optimize fitness, and build a healthier body.

That’s the idea, anyhow, but diets come and go all the time, many people cite the ineffective nature of such “fad” diets, and frankly, whether they work or not, some of them are just a miserable experience. Who can forget the absurdity of the Atkins diet, which forbade the consumption of fruit and fruit juice, as well as an absolute abandonment of carbs? Your body needs the vitamins and natural sugars of fruit in moderation, and the same moderate consumption of carbs is needed for fuel. I saw people on that diet catch a cold, and then give it back to themselves for months due to immunodeficiencies.

So yeah, a lot of these specialized diets are ridiculous, ineffective and possibly even dangerous. A lot of people not in the know would say these things of vegetarianism, too. And you know, I get that. People associate protein with meat, dairy and eggs, and forget that there are plenty of protein-rich vegetarian foods, although a higher volume is often needed, than with meat.
Meat isn’t bad for you, but a low-meat diet has its benefits. Vegan and vegetarian athletes and body builders can be legitimate powerhouses, so there’s proof that it works. But at the same time, again, it takes a lot more plant-based intake for the required amount of protein, and anyone who’s tried and failed to adhere to a vegan or vegetarian diet can attest that most people find it kind of miserable and lacking in enjoyment.

When eating becomes a chore, that can be just as mentally unhealthy as an obsession with food.

This is why vegetarianism isn’t so cut and dry, and you hear terms like “ovo-lacto vegetarian” or “pescatarian”. Ovo-lacto is pretty obvious, being vegetarianism but adding dairy and eggs. What the heck is a pescatarian diet?

Coming from the Italian root word “pesce”, meaning fish, a pescatarian diet is a base vegetarian diet that includes fish and other seafood. Most, though not all pescatarians also eat eggs and dairy to some small or large extent.

Pescatarians, therefore, do not eat beef, pork, poultry or any other animal that doesn’t live in the sea. This allows for a lot more variety in your meals, and means you can enjoy things like dairy in moderation, the lean protein of egg whites (okay, sneak a yolk now and then, I won’t tell on you), and the diversity of seafood cuisine.

On top of being a more varied and rich diet, it has a lot of health benefits. If you don’t like seafood (and there are just as many people who hate seafood as love it), this diet will obviously have problems for you, and perhaps ovo-lacto (maybe with a little poultry) is more fit for you.

Benefits of Pescatarianism

Benefits of Pescatarianism

  • Elimination of meats – especially red meats – reduces cholesterol, heart disease and high blood pressure.
  • It brings in nutrients and vitamins that aren’t present in a pure vegetarian nor vegan diet. Vegans and pure vegetarians have to use way more supplements, or eat a whole lot of various plant-based foods to make up for this, which becomes a chore as I said.
  • It’s so much easier to stick to this diet, if you like seafood. The body craves meat. Even if you adore vegetables, fruits and legumes (who doesn’t?), it’s not satisfying to not have something heavier and more protein-rich.
  • It’s very sustainable, as aquaculture is far more efficient and less demanding than raising livestock. Aquaculture will play a huge role in space colonization, and in humanitarian aids to end hunger in the near future as well.
  • You’ll lose a lot of weight – seafood is lean by nature. Even the fattier fish aren’t the type of fatty that much matters to our bodies.
  • Omega-3 fatty acids are fantastic for fighting inflammation, helping to control diabetes, reducing the risk of strokes, losing weight more quickly and naturally, growing better muscles, and for a healthier nervous and neurological system. People who don’t like seafood take fish oil pills for this, even.
Healthy Fish

Healthy Fish – Pescatarian Food List

Let’s look at a quick list of the healthier items on the pescatarian menu.

  • Trout
  • Catfish
  • Salmon
  • Squid
  • Tilapia
  • Sardines
  • Clams
  • Oysters
  • Anchovies (if you’re the one person on the planet that likes these)
  • Snapper
  • Scallops
  • Shrimp.

These are pretty common fare, and liked by most people who like seafood at all. Well, aside from perhaps anchovies and sardines, people who like them seem to be a minority due to their pungency and saltiness.

The ones below are kind of high in mercury, which isn’t good for you, so enjoy these only occasionally as a treat.

  • Tuna
  • Marlin
  • Grouper
  • Swordfish
  • Mackerel
  • Orange Roughy
  • Shark (if you can avoid eating sharks, please do, they’re important to the ocean’s ecosystem and are scarcely farm-raised. Swordfish is very similar, but more sustainable).

Does a pescatarian diet intrigue you? If you like seafood and lots of veggies, give this a whirl. You might just love it. To learn more about diets like this, and to get tips on cooking delicious confections that suit dietary restrictions, subscribe to my YouTube channel today!

What is Hypertrophy?

So, you want a sculpted, muscular physique? First, ask yourself what your prime motivation for this is, because if it’s solely for aesthetic purposes, this could be mentally unhealthy – body image is a complicated thing, as is the social pressure on it.

That said, if healthy and self-confidence is your main motivation, what’s wrong with looking good while living a healthy lifestyle? The thing is, people oversimplify the human body when they consider the effects and implications of exercise. Well, that’s not really surprising, the “why and how” of this is only guaranteed knowledge if you’re either a fitness professional, a medical professional, or a biologist.

Unfortunately, to get the most out of your exercise and diet regimen, and most efficiently achieve that swole look, you kind of need to understand it. Specifically in this case, you need to understand anaerobic respiration, basic metabolism, and the concept of hypertrophy.

What’s Hypertrophy

While it may sound like a bonus prize better than first place, hypertrophy is a biological/medical phenomenon wherein muscles are stressed in various way (and to an extent, damaged), thus increasing the density and cross section of muscle present.

Proper exercise intended for body building and muscle gain, induces hypertrophy. Here’s the thing though, hypertrophy, and the things that induce it, will hurt. You will experience fatigue, soreness, cramps and just general aches and pains from it.

Well, the old saying goes, no pain no gain, right? We’ll talk in a minute about how this is induced, but let’s talk about the two scientific phenomena taking place during hypertrophy, and how it results in increased muscle volume and density.

Sarcoplasmic hypertrophy is an increase in what’s known as sarcoplasm. This is a fluid volume inside muscles, that gives it that kind of “jelly” fluidic nature while relaxed. This creates muscular bulk, but being noncontractile, sarcoplasmic hypertrophy doesn’t increase strength per se. It is however necessary for the function and tensile power of your muscular tissue.

Myofibrillar hypertrophy is the increase of myofibrils, which are the thread-like contractile components which actually do the mechanical work. The increase of these is the increase in actual physical strength.

It is important to achieve the proper balance of myofibrillar and sarcoplasmic hypertrophies, though generally, the body manages that on its own. However, if you see increasing muscle mass, but the expected strength increase intended to come along with it isn’t present, you may need to see a dietitian or even a physician, because something may be wrong.

Stimulating Hypertrophy

Before we go over the ways to stimulate this, I want to again emphasize that some of this can be dangerous if you don’t do it properly. Consult your physician, and use your best judgment with this. Seriously, stressing your body can be dangerous!

Progressive Tension Overload

This sounds fancy and complex, but in all reality, it’s just what any good lifting regimen does – increase what you can and do lift over time, stressing your muscles and causing them to grow. Some of the best are curls, deadlifts, squats, military presses and bench presses. While the more dramatic increase in reps and lifts you can do will be logarithmically proportional to the resulting hypertrophy, this is where the being careful I talked about comes into play.

Muscle Damage

It’s commonly said that you have to break muscles to make muscles. This is actually completely true. This is also why constructive exercise is painful – you’re breaking the myofibrils and losing some of your sarcoplasm by overexerting your muscles.
When the body takes damage, it will reactively begin building more tissue to replace what was lost, or to bridge gaps formed by strain. While some tissues don’t heal gracefully (hence scarred skin, and misshapen bones that weren’t set right), muscle is very good at healing itself in an effective and constructive way.

Metabolic Stress

On top of tension stress/breakage, there’s also metabolic stress. This is where anaerobic versus aerobic respiration comes into play. Anaerobic respiration involves little to no exercise (where aerobic is very oxygen-heavy). Most lifts and similar exercises are anaerobic, and since anaerobic respiration is less efficient and more stressful, muscles are strained by it, causing them to “double up” to better handle the stress of it all.

On a side note, anaerobic respiration produces lactic acid, which causes that really sore feeling you get from an effective work out, where a burning sensation comes from broken muscle.

Supplements

You can make induction of hypertrophy safer by reducing the physical extremeness of it with supplements that let muscles rebuild faster, and stimulate muscle growth naturally.

Creatine

You may have heard some bad things about creatine, but seriously, it’s all bunk. Creatine has been clinically proven to be harmless, and effective. Creatine will help boost sarcoplasmic hypertrophy as well as stimulate more effective respiration all around. It also abates the soreness of lactic acid production, which quite nice.

Protein Powder

Muscle has to have raw materials to build with, and that means protein. Protein powders are an excellent way to deliver this rich nutrient to your body, while eliminating fats and other undesired things that come from animal protein.

To learn more about hypertrophy, and the science behind supplements and exercises, subscribe to my YouTube channel today!

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